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which affords' good shelter from westerly winds, and is very
Ccisy of access, being a small roadstead rather than a harbour.
“ 27tli. We set out early with the boats, but the weather
was too bad to do much; however, something was done, and
at dusk we went ashore on a small island in the Sound. It
rained very hard all the afternoon and during part of the night.
We sheltered ourselves as well as we could with the boat’s
sails and tarpavdins; but during the night the wind shifted,
and blew so hard, that it threw down our slight shelter, and
made me very anxious about the ship ; for I was doubtful of
the security of the anchorage where she lay.
“ 28th. This morning was very cold, it rained hai-d and
blew strong; but when it cleared away for a short time, we
set to work again, to explore what appeared to be a channel.
“ After a three hours’ pull against wind, snow, and hail,
my channel proved to be only one of the numerous inlets which
encroach upon the Fuegian temtory; and the boats returned
to the Beagle, with the help of strong squalls from the S.W.
I was not a little glad to see the ship in the place where I had
left her. During the night another anchor had been let g o ;
but she had not moved from her position. This anchorage is so
easy of access, that I hope it will be of use to vessels passing
through the Strait. There is room for one large sized ship to
lie conveniently, or for two or three small craft.
“ The weather has not yet been so cold as I expected it
would be ; snow lies on the deck a short time, but the thermometer
has not been lower than 31° (Fahrenheit).
“ 2 9 th. A rainy, blowing morning: Mr. Stokes and I set
out in the boats; but it rained so much, that we covdd only
make a fire to dry our clothes, and remove the numbness, caused
by sitting a long time in the wet.
“ On the 3d of May, we anchored in Port Gallant: though
perfectly secure, this is a dismal harbour in winter, being so
surrounded by high mountains, that the sun is seldom visible.
Until the 7th, in addition to our usual daily duties, we were
occupied in preparing for an excursion, in boats, to the Jerome
Channel. Salt provisions were entirely withheld from the crew
for three days, and instead of them, preserved meat, shell-fish,
and a large pig, brought from Monte Video, were substituted.
We found in this, as in almost every Fuegian harbour, abundance
of muscles, limpets, and wild celery; some fish and some
wild-fowl. Many of our party thought shags good eating, but
only one person could be found daring enough to try whether
old Sir John Narborough was quite warranted in saying that
a fox was ‘ savoury food,’ and that one repented of his experiment
during a week’s serious illness.
“ My reason for entirely stopping the use of salt-meat, for a
few days, was the belief that, at least, two or three days’ change
of diet is necessary to cause any real alteration in the system ;
and that it is better to give fresh provisions for three days in
succession, and salt-meat during the remainder of three weeks,
than to give fresh-meat at three separate intervals in the same
period.
“ During the wet weather of these regions, we derived great
benefit from awnings, painted for the purpose, while refitting at
Rio de Janeiro and Maldonado: they kept the lower, and a
great part of the upper deck quite dry, even in heavy rain.
“ May 7th. Mr. Stokes and I set out with a cutter and
whale-boat, to explore the Jerome Channel. We were well
provided, with as much as the boats could stow, of what we
thought likely to be useful during a month’s cruise. Of water
we took but little, trusting to the wetness of these regions for
a supply. Fach man had his clothes covered with canvas, or
duck, well painted; and instead of a hat, every one had a
‘ south-wester’ (like a coal-heaver’s cap).
“ Our provisions, being sufficient for twenty-eight days,
made the boats rather deep; and I soon found the cutter
pulled very heavily, and was obliged to take her in tow. All
our party slept in the cutter the first night, the whale-boat
being made fast astern. Towards midnight it blew fresh, and
as the boats were anchored near the wash of the beach, they
rolled a good deal ; and soon afterwards, feeling the whaleboat
hanging heavily on her rope, I hauled her up alongside,
and found she was almost swamped; in a few minutes she
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