as to cover the distant objects by which our course could be directed.
We fortunately got a glimpse through this cloud of a cluster of
islands ■ in the direction of the houses, and decided on walking
towards them; but in doing this we suffered very much from the
cold, and were obliged to halt under the shelter of them, and await
the arrival of our Indian guide. He conducted us between these
islands, over a small lake, and by a swampy river, into the Athabasca
Lake, from whence the establishments were visible. At four P.M.
we had the pleasure of arriving at Fort Chipewyan, and of being
received by Messrs. Keith and Black, the partners of the North-
West Company in charge, in the most kind and hospitable manner.
Thus terminated a winter’s journey of eight hundred and fifty-seven
miles, in the progress of which there was a great intermixture of
agreeable and disagreeable circumstances. Could the amount of
each be balanced, I suspect the latter would much preponderate;
and amongst these the initiation into walking in snow-shoes must be
considered as prominent. The suffering it occasions can be but
faintly imagined by a person who thinks upon the inconvenience of
marching with a weight of between two and three pounds constantly
attached to galled feet, and swelled ankles. Perseverance and practice
only will enable the novice to surmount this pain.
The next evil is the being constantly exposed to witness the
wanton and unnecessary cruelty of the men to their dogs, especially
those of the Canadians, who beat them unmercifully, and habitually
vent on them the most dreadful and disgusting imprecations.
There are other inconveniences, which though keenly felt during
the day’s journey, are speedily forgotten, when stretched out in the
encampment, before a large fire, you enjoy the social mirth of your
companions, who usually pass the evening in recounting their former
feats in travelling. At this time the Canadians are always cheerful
and merry, and the only bar to their comfort arises from the frequent
interruption occasioned by the dogs, who are constantly prowling
about the circle, and snatching at every kind of food that happens
to be within their reach. These useful animals are a comfort to
them afterwards, by the warmth they impart when lying down by
their side or feet, as they usually do. But the greatest gratifications
a traveller in these regions enjoys, are derived from the hospitable
welcome he receives at every trading post, however poor the means
of the host may be ; and from being disrobed even for a short time
of the trappings of a voyager, and experiencing the pleasures of
cleanliness.
The following are the estimated distances, in statute miles, which
Mr. Back and I had travelled since our departure from Cumberland.
From Cumberland House to Carlton House . ., . 263
From Carlton to Isle a la Crosse . . . . . 230
From Isle el la Crosse to north side of the Methye Portage 124
From the Methye Portage to Fort Chipewyan . . . 240
867 Miles