Secretary of State, requesting his permission to provide a few well-
qualified steersmen and bowmen, at Stromness, to assist our proceedings
in the former part of our journey into the interior.
May 30.—The easterly wind, which had retarded the ship’s progress
so much, that we had only reached Hollesley Bay after a week’s
beating about, changed to W.S.W. soon after that anchorage had
been gained. The vessels instantly weighed, and, by carrying all
sail, arrived in Yarmouth Koads at seven P.M .; the pilots were
landed, and our course was continued through the anchorage. At
midnight, the wind became light and variable, and gradually drew
round to the N .W .; and, as the sky indicated unsettled weather,
' and the wind blew from an unfavourable quarter for ships upon that
coast, the commander bore up again for Yarmouth, and anchored at
eigThht iAs .rMet.urn afforded us, at least, the opportunity of comparing the
longitude of Yarmouth church, as shewn by our chronometers, with
its position as laid down by the Ordnance Trigonometrical Survey ;
and, it was satisfactory to find, from the small difference in their
results, that the chronometers had not experienced any alteration in
their rates, in consequence of their being changed from an horizontal
position in a room, to that of being carried in the pocket,
An untoward circumstance, while at this anchorage, cast a damp
on our party at this early period of the voyage. Emboldened by
the decided appearance öf the N.W. sky, several of our officers and
passengers ventured on shore for a few hours ; but, we had not been
long in the town before the wind changed suddenly to S.E., which
caused instant motion in the large fleet collected at this anchorage.
The commander of our ship intimated his intention of proceeding to
sea, by firing guns ; and the passengers hastened to embark. Mr.
Back, however, had unfortunately gone upon some business to a
house two or three miles distant from Yarmouth, along the fine of
the coast; from whence he expected to be able to observe the first
symptoms of moving, which the vessels might make. By some accident,
however, he did not make his appearance before the captain
was obliged to make sail, that he might get the ships through the
intricate passage of the Cockle Gat before it was dark. Fortunately,
through the kindness of Lieutenant Hewett, of the Protector, I was
enabled to convey a note to our missing companion, desiring him to
proceed immediately by the coach to the Pentland Firth, and from
thence across the passage to Stromness, which appeared to be the
only way of proceeding by which he could rejoin the party.
June 3.—The wind continuing favourable after leaving Yarmouth,
about nine this morning we passed the rugged and bold projecting
rock, termed Johnny Groat’s house, and soon afterwards Duncansby
Head, and then entered the Pentland Firth. A pilot came from
the main shore of Scotland, and steered the ship in safety between
the different islands, to the outer anchorage at Stromness, though
the atmosphere was too dense for distinguishing any of the objects
on the land. Almost- immediately after the ship had anchored, the
wind changed to N.W., the rain ceased, and a sight was then first
obtained of the neighbouring islands, and of the town of Stromness,
the latter of which, from, this point of view, and at this distance,
presented a pleasing appearance.
Mr. Geddes, the agent of the Hudson's Bay Company at this place,
undertook to communicate my wish for volunteer boatmen to the
different parishes, by a notice on the church-door, which he said was
the surest and most direct channel for the conveyance of information
to the lower classes in these islands, as they invariably attend divine
service there every Sunday. He informed me that the kind of men
we were in want of would be difficult to procure, on account of the
very increased demand for boatmen for the herring fisheryj which
had recently been established on the shores of these islands; that last
year, sixty boats and four hundred men only were employed in this
service, whereas now there were three hundred boats and twelve
B 2