for the scantiness of our observations on the most interesting part
of the country through which we passed.
The north side of the Methye Portage is in latitude 56“ 41' 40' N .
and longitude 109° 52' 0" W. It is, by our course, one hundred and
twenty-four miles from Isle è, la Crosse, and considered as a branch
of the Missinippi, five hundred and ninety-two miles from the Frog
Portage. The Clear Water Eiver passing through the valley,
described above, evidently rises not far to the eastward. The height,
computed by the same mode as that of the Echiamamis, by allowing
a foot for each mile of distance, and six feet on an average, for each
fall and rapid, is two thousand four hundred and sixty-seven feet
above the level of the sea, admitting it to be nine hundred feet above
the Clear Water Eiver. The country, in a line between it and the
mouth of Mackenzie’s Eiver, is a continual descent, although to the
eastward of that line there may be several heights between it and the
Arctic Sea. To the eastward, the lands descend to Hudson’s Bay;
and to the westward also, till the Athabasca Eiver cuts through it,
from whence it ascends to the Eocky Mountains. Daring was the
spirit of enterprise that first led Commerce, with her cumbrous train,
from the waters of Hudson’s Bay to those of the Arctic Sea, across
an obstacle to navigation so stupendous as this; and persevering
has been the industry which drew riches from a source so remote.
On the 8th two men arrived, and informed us, that they had
brought us our ten bags of pemmican, from Isle k la Crosse, but that
they were found to be rotten. Thus were we unexpectedly deprived
of the most essential of our stores, for we knew Fort Chipewyan to
be destitute of provisions, and that Mr. Franklin depended upon us
for a supply, whereas, enough did not remain for our own use. On
the 9th, the canoes and cargoes reached the north side of the portage.
Our people had selected two bags of pemmican less mouldy than the
rest, which they left on the beach. Its decay was caused by some
defect in the mode of mixing it.
On the 10th, we embarked in the Clear Water Eiver, and proceeded
down the current. The hills, the banks, and bed of the river,
were composed of fine yellow sand, with some limestone rocks. The
surface soil was alluvial. At eight A.M. we passed a portage! on
which the limestone rocks: were singularly scattered through the
woods, bearing the appearance of houses and turrets overgrown with
moss. The earth emitted a hollow sound, and the river was divided
by rocks, into narrow crooked channels, «very object indicating that
some convulsion had disturbed th e’general order of nature at this
place. We had passed a portage above it, and after two long portages
below it we encamped. Near the last was a small stream so
strongly impregnated with sulphur, as to taint the air to a great distance
around it. We saw two brown bears on the hills in the course
of the day.
A t daylight, on the 11th, we embarked. The hills continued on
both sides to the mouth of the river, varying from eight hundred to
one thousand feet in height. They declined to the banks in long
green slopes, diversified by woody mounds and copses. The pines
were not here in thick impenetrable masses, but perehed aloft in
single groups on the heights, or shrouded by the livelier hues of the
poplar and willow.
We passed the mouth of the Eed Willow Eiver on the south bank,
flowing through a deep ravine. It is the continuation of the route
by the-Pembina, before mentioned. At noon we entered the majestic
Athabasca or Elk Eiver. Its junction with the -Clear Water Eiver
is called the Forks.. Its banks were inaccessible cliffs, apparently of
day and stones, about two hundred feet high, and its windings in the
south were encircled by high mountains. Its breadth exceeded half
a mile, and was swelled to a mile in many plaees by long muddy
islands in the middle covered with trees. No more portages
interrupted our course, but a swift current hurried us towards the
quarter in which our anticipated discoveries’ were to commence.
The passing cliffs returned a loud confusion of echoes to the sprightly
canoe song, and the dashing paddles; and the eagles, watching with