sandy, but its waters are yellow and muddy. It produces a variety
o f fish, among which its white-fish are esteemed the best in the
country. The only birds visible at this season, are common to every
part of the Missinippi; gulls, ducks, pigeons, goatsuckers, and the
raven; and geese and swans pay a momentary visit in passing to the
north and returning.
There was little in the forts differing from the establishments that
we had before seen. The ground on which they are erected' is
sandy, and favourable to cultivation. Curiosity, however, was satisfied
by the first experiment, and utility alone has been unable to
extend it. Isle it la Crosse is frequented by the Crees and the
Chrpewyans. It is not the dread of the Indians, but of one another,
that has brought the rival Companies so close together at every
trading post; each party seeking to prevent the other from engaging
the affections of the natives, and monopolizing the trade. Whenever
a settlement is made by the one, the other immediately follows,
without considering the eligibility of the place; for it may injure its
opponent, though it cannot benefit itself, and that advantage which
is the first object of all other commercial bodies, becomes but the
second with the fur traders.
On the evening of the 30th we embarked, and entered a wide
channel to the northward of the forts, and extending towards the
north-west. It gradually decreased in breadth till it became a river,
which is the third fork of the Missinippi, and its current being
almost insensible, we entered the Clear Lake at ten A.M. on the 1st
of July. Of this lake, which is very large, no part is known except
the south border, but its extent would lead us to conclude, that its
evaporation must be supplied by another river to the northward,
especially as the small channel that communicates with Buffalo Lake
is motionless: The existence of such a river is asserted by the
Indians, and a shorter passage might be found by it across the
height of land to Clear Water River, than the portage from the
Methye Lake.
In Buffalo Lake, the wind was too strong for us to proceed, and
we therefore encamped upon a gravel beach thrown up by the
waves. We embarked at three A.M. July 2d, and at four P.M.
entered the mouth o f the Methye River. The lake is thirty-four
miles in length, and fourteen in breadth. It is probably very deep,
for we saw no islands on this wide expanse, except at the borders.
On the south-west side were two forts, belonging to the Companies,
and near them a solitary hill seven or eight hundred feet high. At
eight P.M. we encamped in the Methye River, at the confluence of
the river Pembina. A route has been explored by it to the Red
Willow River, across the height of land, but the difficulties of it were
so great, that the ordinary route is preferred.
On the 3d we passed through the Methye River, and encamped on
the borders of the Methye Lake. The soil from Isle 4 la Crosse
to this place is sandy, with some portion of clay, and the trees
numerous; but the Methye River is stony, and so shallow, that to
lighten the canoes, we made two portages of five and two miles.
The paths were overflowed with cold spring water, and barricadoed
by fallen trees ; we should have been contented to immerse ourselves
wholly had the puddle been sufficiently deep, for the musquitoes
devoured every part that was exposed to them.
On the 4th we crossed the Methye Lake, and landed at the
portage on the north-west side, in one of the sources of the Missinippi.
The lake is seventeen miles in length, with a large island in
the middle. We proceeded to the north side of the portage with
two men, carrying a tent and some instruments, leaving the canoes
and cargoes to be transported by daily journeys of two or three miles.
The distance is fourteen statute miles, and there are two small lakes
about five miles from the north side. Several species of fish were
found in them, though they have no known communication with any
other body of water, being situated on the elevation of the height.
The road was a gentle ascent, miry from the late rainy weather, and
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