speaking, falls on it, with the result that it is
open all the year round, and for eight months can
be very easily negotiated. Oh the Nepal side there
is the Tinkar Pass, quite close to the Lipu Lekh,
which is of about the same altitude and is approached
by just as easy a route. However, the Tinkar Pass
is of little use to Nepal, as this portion of that country
is cut off from the rest of Nepal by impassable
glaciers and mountains; it simply affords an alternative
route to traders from G-arbyang.
Longstaff with his two guides made a short excursion
into this district, ascending the great Nampa
glacier lying in the valley to the north of the mountain
of that name, and previously visited by Mr. A.
Henry Savage Landor. Nampa is 23,350 ft. high, and
as seen from Tibet is a grand pile dominating the entire
neighbouring ranges.
The first view of Tibet from the Lipu Lekh Pass is
magnificent, as, amidst all the other beauties of the
landscape, the centre of the picture is occupied by
four peaks, all over 22,000 ft., which are quite close
together, the highest being Gurla Mandhata, 25,350 ft.
This solid mass lends a grandeur to the whole which
is quite awe-inspiring, and on all sides the most
beautiful coloured rocks heighten the effect, so that
the impression on the beholder is that the scene before
him is truly one of nature’s grandest handiworks.
There are no trees or verdure to relieve the severity
of what he sees, and the almost total absence of animal
life adds to the feeling of intense desolation prevalent
everywhere.
N These divers colours among the rocks are quite a
feature of the country all the way to Taklakot, and
of the landscape round that fortress. There are sepia,
burnt sienna, raw sienna, violet, all shades of yellow
and many lovely shades of red. The brilliancy of
the sunshine and the intense sharpness of all lines,
added to the clearness of the air, which makes the
most distant objects appear close, while all around is a
penetrating glare, make one liken the landscape to
OUR FIRST CAMP IN TIBET AT PALA
nothing so much as that part of Arabia which one sees
near Suez.
A descent of four miles brought us to Pala, which is
a Tibetan outpost, the garrison being composed of
one watchman, who is more frequently conspicuous
by his absence than his presence. There is accommodation
for travellers in the shape of two rest-houses,
built to face north as a protection from the prevailing
south wind. We camped in the lee of a knoll, and
lazed the whole afternoon with our eyes riveted on
the beauties of nature around us, and as moonlight