Daba Jongpen rights in the large market of Gyanema,
and by these means has now become one of the most
influential officials in this part of Tibet. His border
commences near Rungung, which is by far the most
favourable spot to break the journey, as there is protection
from the bitter wind and ample supply of grass for
fodder, and includes Kardam and all the small hamlets
situated on the upper course of the Karnali. Baidak,
15,000 ft., is in the centre of this plateau, a very cheerless
place, to be avoided at all costs as a camping-ground
on account of the night wind and the want of fuel.
Erom this spot there are two tracks, the western going
to Rakas Tal, the favourite with Bhotia traders, while
the eastern traverses the Gurla Pass, 16,200 ft. high, and
leads to the Mansarowar Lake (14,900 ft.).
The view as one surveys this holy place, venerated alike
by Buddhists and Hindus, is one of the most beautiful
throughout the whole of this part of the country. The
Mansarowar Lake, forty-five miles in circumference, on
the right, and Rakas Tal, of equal size and more varied
contour, on the left, make with their lovely dark blue a
magnificent foreground to the range of the Kailas
mountains at the back, while the holy Kailas Peak,
Tise of the Tibetans, the Heaven of Hindus and Buddhists,
fills the centre of the picture, full of majesty, a king
of mountains, dominating the entire chain by 2000 ft.
The colouring of the rocks and the hue of the water,
softened by the green of thousands and thousands
of acres of verdant pasture-land, form a setting to
the landscape which is indescribably charming, and
although one misses the foliage of the forests, the colours
are so exquisite in their brilliancy that they clothe the
austerity of the mountains with a mantle that veils all
their harshness. As one reaches the heaps of stones