satisfactory state of affairs was established. The
Nirba made a small present of a rug and a few dried
fruits, &c., saying that this was only a preliminary
to further presents, which the Jongpen hoped to present
personally on our arrival at Taklakot. On our
side the Nirba and his party were entertained with
food that evening, and next morning the Political
Peshkar went to Taklakot to announce the time of our
arrival, and took with him as a complimentary return
present a table-cover and a silk handkerchief, both
of which, we ascertained later, were much appreciated.
Sangcham camp was a cold, bleak spot, where fuel
was not to be obtained, and where we had every
possible discomfort. There was a bitter keen wind
that numbed the fingers, a driving rain that penetrated
everything, and, the altitude being 14,620 ft.,
every one’s respiration was affected. Some men said
they would die, others lay down like logs and never
moved again till we started in the morning on our
next march. Longstafi was kept very busy persuading
unbelievers that death was not so imminent
as it seemed, and that all should be stout-hearted
and fill their bodies with vast stores of food so as
to keep off mountain-sickness. But he was like
a preacher of salvation by the eating of bacon to
the sea-sick voyager in the Bay: men heard him
not, and so next day on the pass some suffered untold
agonies.
There is a very gradual ascent to the Lipu Lekh
Pass all the way from Garbyang, the distance being
seventeen miles, and ponies can be ridden up at a
great pace. The height of the pass is 16,780 ft., and its
position is such that very little snow, comparatively