of the Lama. The result was a summons to Gartok
by the Viceroys of all the parties concerned, and the
Tarjum of Barkha was absent as an accused person, while
the Lama of Taklakot went as principal witness, and
the real Jongpen’s third son was called to explain any
difficulties that might arise in the hearing of the case.
So we found the Head Lama in charge of the monastery
away, while a subordinate Lama performed his duties,
and also the civil administration in the hands of a
young man of twenty-eight years of age. I t is then
easy to understand how, in the absence of the heads
of departments, these juniors were considerably perturbed
at our visit, especially as they had no precedents
to go upon. However, they played their parts
with the greatest tact and cordiality, while we did
our utmost to make their task an easy one.
In the afternoon of the day of our arrival the Jong-
pen and Lama in charge came to pay us a formal call,
preceded by the Nirba at full gallop. The Nirba
invariably rode a mare, which was accompanied by a
very young foal. The mare was always full of spirits
and it was generally as much as he could do to hold
her at all, but, whatever the confusion due to mare,
foal, and comedian, he never relaxed his all-embracing
smile. The Jongpen’s son was a very tall man of
about six feet three inches in height, his dress was
altogether Chinese in pattern, and although not in
the least shortsighted he wore as an ornament enormous
spectacles with glasses two and a half inches in
diameter, a fashion common among high officials, while
the Lama was a short man of very benevolent appearance,
clothed in the universal monk’s costume, and so painfully
shortsighted that he needed glasses, which he
did not have. Nothing could have been more friendly
than the interview which followed, and which lasted
about two hours. After the formal presentation of
rugs, boots, a cap, dried fruits, &c., the visitors gave
themselves up to an absorbing inspection of European
Lama’s Jongpen’s
Attendant Author Attendant Orderly
Rai Pundit
Sahib Gobariya
Grand Lama’s * Nirba Acting Jong- My
Lama Attendant pen (note the Serishtadar
enormous spectacles)
THE JONGPEN AND LAMA
articles which were lying about in the tent. Guns,
field-glasses, and photographic cameras were all most
carefully examined, and much appreciated, while the
general good humour was increased by the passing
round of port wine in a tiny glass carafe and liqueur
glasses. The Lama was a total abstainer, but not so
the Jongpen, and as for the Nirba he at once asked for
the whole bottle, but was made to realise that only
the great folks were partaking at that particular
moment. However, a sigh was whispered up to me that