Nanda Devi by peaks of 21,858 ft., 21,624 ft. and
24,379 ft., and close to these is Nanda Kot, 22,530
ft. To the north-west of Nanda Devi we have Duna-
giri, 23,184 ft., and again east and north of this we
have five other peaks varying from 20,754 ft. up to
23,220 ft.'
During June of this year (1905) Longstaff and his
two Italian guides explored the three large valleys on
the east of Nanda Devi and Nanda Kot. They successfully
crossed two hitherto unattempted snow passes
of about 18,000 ft. over both of which they had to
carry their own impedimenta, as the climbing was of
too severe a character to be attempted by their Bhotia
coolies. They also made an attempt on the eastern peak
of Nanda Devi: the actual climbing lasted three days
and entailed two bivouacs, the last being on the actual
watershed between Garhwal and Kumaon at an altitude
of over 19,000 ft. The attempt had to be given up
owing to the great length of the climb, and the difficulty
of themselves carrying more than three days’ food. In
the same month they attempted Nanda Kot, but_were
turned back about a thousand feet from the summit
by the risk of starting an avalanche. Judging from
Longstaff’s experience on Gurla Mandhata, detailed by
him in another chapter, their discretion was probably
justified.
To the east of the Nanda Devi group we have the
Pancha Chuli, of “ Five Peak ” range, the summits
varying from 19,923 ft. up to 22,661 ft., and still further
east another range with many peaks over 20,000 ft.
Whereas west of the Nanda Devi group we have the
sacred Badrinath, Kedarnath, and Gangotri mountains,
and others, which, falling within an area of twenty-six
miles from north to south and thirty miles from eas
to west, present a panorama of lofty peaks whose
grandeur baffles description, for we have in this
small area four peaks above 23,000 ft., nine above
BIVOUAC ON THE RIDQ E OE NANDA DEVI AT 19,100 FT.
22.000 ft., eleven above 21,000 ft. and eight above
20.000 ft.
I t may well be said that there is no place in all this
fair earth of ours which can compare with the marvellous
beauty of these everlasting snows. The Hindu sage
who penned the following words, with all his glowing