was quite picturesque seeing these coloured animals
on the barren plains. The whole country is full of
sacred associations, and wherever one goes one meets
devotees who generally manage to combine religion with
Our men crossing the ford
THE V /L L E Y OF THE SU T L E J E IV E E AT TIKTHAPUHI
a little business: the markets of Gyanema and Taklakot
are full of them and their numbers influence the trade.
On the western edge of the holy country of the
lakes and Mount Kailas is Tirthapuri, a great centre
for pilgrims, three days’ march from Darchan, on
the river Sutlej. The actual source of this river is
at the monastery of Dalju, where there is a large
spring, though a dry channel is continued up to the
Rakas Tal, and in places in this channel water is found.
The local statements all agree in asserting that there is
an underground flow of water throughout the entire
length of this dry channel, which occasionally comes
to the surface only to disappear later on. There can
be no doubt that during a season of very heavy rain
and floods this dry channel would connect the source
at Dalju with the Rakas Tal. At Tirthapuri there is a
strong flow of water in the river, and the presence of
hot sulphur springs, combined with the old time traditions
of the place, renders the locality peculiarly
interesting to the devotee and the traveller.
When the world was young, so goes the tale, a demon
by constant service and whole-hearted devotion made
himself the favourite of the great god Shiva, who,
pleased with his attentions, asked what favour he
could show in return. The demon asked for the power
of instantly turning to ashes any one on whose head he
placed his hand. Shiva handed him his bracelet and
conferred that power. Then evil thoughts filled the
mind of the other, and he sought opportunity to destroy
great Shiva himself by means of this bracelet and
seize the reins of omnipotence, and snatch for himself
fair Parbati the goddess-mate of the great deity.
At this Shiva fled and concealed himself in the earth,
and a shrine faithfully indicates the exact spot of this
rapid retreat, while the demon went to dally with his
beautiful consort. But Parbati, alone, was not without
resource, and she insisted, as a preliminary to any
advances, that the demon should dance the great and
famous pas seul of Shiva, or for ever withdraw his
attentions. In this dance the arms are alternately
thrown over the head, and while the demon was executing
this movement the dreaded bracelet struck him
on the head and instantly reduced him to ashes, which