130 miles till it approaches the eastern end of Lake
Uliungur.*
From this point the stream is called the “ Kara,” or
“ Black” Irtish, under which name it has a course of
373 miles, the entire length of the river being 2,075
miles. Just before entering Russian territory its mean
depth is 10 feet ; its breadth 686 fe e t ; its volume
793,000 cubic feet per minute, or about three times as
much water as the Seine rolls under the bridges of
Paris.t
During its course towards Ust-Kamenogorsk, it
receives on the right bank the Altai tributaries, the
Karaburek, Kalgut, Kurchum, Kainda, Narim, and
Bukhtarma, after which the stream becomes more
rapid and the mountains close inwards, perpendicular
rocks rise out of the streams, on one of which is
* There are strong reasons, however, for supposing that this stream
is only a tributary of the Uliungur that rises on the Kobdo plateau,
flews south till it rounds the promontory of the Tsin-Guntee mountains,
and then, completing a course of 300 miles, flows north-west at a low
gradient into the lake. Between the eastern shore of the lake and the
so-called Irtish, already mentioned, runs a low ridge, which disappears
towards the north, where the lake and the Irtish are only two miles
apart, and where the Kirghese point to a dry watercourse, said to be
filled in spring by the overflow from the lake. (See “ Recent Russian
Explorations in Western Mongolia,” Markham’ s Geographical
Magazine, July, 1875.) A t this point there is, in the opinion of Captain
Miroshnichenko, a subterranean communication between the lake and
the Irtish ; for whereas the volume of the river is 36,000 cubic feet per
minute at a spot 13 miles above the lake, it is 125,000 cubic feet, or
more than three times as much, below it.
f Thus far the two large tributaries on the right bank have been the
Kran and the Burgum, besides which may be mentioned the Koba,
Alkabek, Kaljir, and Tokyr, whilst on the left bank flow in the Suptu-
kurt, Ku-Irtysh, Burutogoi, and the Temir-Su. The river now enters
Russian territory, and receives the Kalba and the Koldjur, this latter
bringing the drainage from a mountain lake, the Marka-Kul, about 60
miles distant, 1,360 feet high, measuring 27 miles long by 17 wide, and
with an area of 154 square miles. Further on the Kara Irtish divides
into three branches, with marshy banks, and flows gently across the
poised a huge granite boulder overhanging the water,
the landscape presenting for rock scenery one of the
most picturesque of views, compared with which, Mr.
Atkinson says, the scenery of the Rhine is small and
tame. In some parts the mountains rise to an
enormous height above the water, and are so nearly
perpendicular that no man could climb them. Some
of the rocks are jasper of a dark reddish brown,
others of a deep purple, contrasting beautifully with
the yellow and green mosses and lichens growing
thereon. But no luxuriant vegetation is visible; no
forests, no fields. Every now and then appears an
islet clothed with poplars and willows, but that is all
except a few grey bushes on the rocks. There are
many rapids, but not too swift for navigation. F urther
down, terraces, about 25 feet above high water mark
show that of old the Irtish had a higher level either
from having a greater volume of water, or because in
course of time the river has worn for itself a deeper
bed. A t Ust-Kamenogorsk the long stretch of rapids
ends abruptly, the river, now at an altitude of 1,128
feet, opens out widely, and enters on its path across
the steppe in a broad clay bed, winding about among
numerous large islands, several of an area of from 10
to 40 square miles.*
Bosangir flats info the Zaisan lake. On emerging at an altitude of
1,345 feet, the river, now called the “ W h ite ” Irtish, that has hitherto
had a straight course, becomes very winding, flowing north till it
rounds the “ Bolshoi ” or Great A lta i range, then north-east till close
to the 84th meridian of east longitude, then north-west past Ust-
Kamenogorsk, within about 50 miles of which town the gradient of the
river is or about 3 feet in a mile.
* On the left bank also there are several tributaries not yet alluded
to : the Kenderlik, foaming and thundering down the roeks to the
steppe, and then with spirit tamed flowing slowly across the Bosangir
flats into the Zaisan ; the Kokpekti, rising near the Karakol pass : the
Char-Gurban, rising north of Kokpektinsk, but on the other side of the