peep at the Viceroy ? A s for our humble selves, we,
for the time o f course, were nobodies, and I was content
to do my best, under difficulties, to procure for myself a
clean face and hands, from my india-rubber basin, under
a shed in the yard. Presently two outriders dashed
into the village, as if on their speed depended their
lives.
And now there was hurrying to and fro, shouting,
talking, haranguing, and bawling, whilst I, with the
calmest nerves I could command, took up my stand in
the guest-room. A t last appeared the first carriage
of the viceregal cortege,-Ma tarantass like our own-—
then a second, a third, a fourth, and so on to the
eleventh, to each of which fresh horses had to be
attached in an incredibly few minutes. Soon there
walked into the station a youth, who I was told was an
aide-de-camp. T o him I addressed myself in French, explaining
who I was, and what I wanted of the Governor-
General. He replied that his father was coming in,
and would speak to me. Unfortunately for me, his
Excellency had not enjoyed the education he was
giving to his sons; for he was one of those Turkistan
officers who had risen from the ranks to the highest
position and respect, like another I afterwards met, but
who also had to speak to me through his interpreter.
Another son entered the post-house with his father,
and interpreted for me in French, with an ability that
I thought I had never seen excelled. The General
had heard of my coming, and expected to see me at
Pavlodar. I explained that I was anxious to get on
as fast as possible, and presented a letter, from the
Minister of the Interior, accompanying it with a request
that I might be furnished with a “ courier,” or a
“ Crown ” podorojna, and be saved the possibility of
coming to a standstill in the Steppe for want of
horses.
Nothing could have been kinder than his Excellency’s
attention in listening to all I had to say, and
promising to telegraph along my route to facilitate my
journey. I hardly supposed that he could give me a
formal letter during this few minutes’ stay at the poststation
; but I had provided writing materials, paper,
ink and cards, even to a stylographic pen, with which
the General wrote on his own card that all and sundry
were to show us attention, and accord assistance if
needed. This was to serve us to Semipolatinsk, and
when I reached there I found awaiting me this magnanimous
telegram
“ Recommendation to local authorities.
“ I desire that all administrative authorities and postal
contractors in the general government of the Steppe
show hospitality, provide interpreters and guides, and
help forward without delay the English traveller, Pastor
Lansdell, who is travelling through the Semirechia
oblast to Kuldja and Turkistan.
“ (Signed) Governor-General
“ L ie u t .-G e n . K o l p a k o v s k y .”
Gentlemen of England, who live at home at ease, or
who, when they voyage to the south of France, telegraph
to Paris for compartments reserved, and write
to the Times if they are not satisfied,— velvet-cushion
travellers such as these can only feebly appreciate the
value of such a telegram in the steppes of Central Asia.
To say that it was worth its weight in gold is only faint
praise; but perhaps I had better not be too lavish of
my superlatives here, because, when returning to the
same subject, I shall want them further on. Suffice