and the sweet honeysuckles were pleasing vision, and
as I worked round towards the “ Bund,” or high embankment
of the Jhelum, where are many gardens, the hedges
-of yellow briar, the stately hollyhocks, twelve and fifteen
feet high, of such gorgeous tints as are hardly dreamecL
of at home, and the almost dazzling masses of portu-
lacas grown by the natives in every piece of waste
ground, were a refreshment to the eyes.
A welcome refreshment to the inner woman was
awaiting my return, for a kind friend, hearing of my
return, had sent a vast store of delicious vegetables,
great stalks of asparagus, lettuces of the juiciest, arti-
ehokes in a noble crown with multi-coloured supporting
radishes, beet, carrots, new potatoes, and scarlet
tomatoes, a fine offering and very acceptable after my
•somewhat monotonous diet of the last few weeks.
Blanking this “ dali ” (native word used for any kind of
present sent in a basket) were good specimens of the
early fruits of the valley—enormous black and white
” mulberries, early cherries red and black, strawberries,
vying with the best in England, yellow raspberries,
walnuts, and dried apricots. These are very good for
cooking, and are generally eaten in this state, the
khobani ” here not equalling those found m
the Himalayas. Later on in July the peaches ripen,
and the pears, and then is the time for the epicure to
visit this land of “ fruits and springs.” Such mammoth
specimens will be sold him for an anna or two that he
will risk all possible deadly consequences in order that
none may be wasted, and when, besides these, the
grapes and apples, plums, and figs are ripe, he will be
certain to feel that Srinagar must be Pomona’s own
especial capital.
Kashmir is admirably adapted to fruit growing, and if
communications were but quicker and cheaper, it might,
be made the orchard to supply the thirsty Punjab and
Central Provinces. Many good varieties of English and
French fruits have been introduced at different times,
and, whenever given good conditions, have been admirably
successful. The people themselves, being great
vegetarians and understanding the drying and storing of
fruits and vegetables for winter use, are quite willing to
try new and good methods if guaranteed against loss,
and this has been more especially the case since the
inauguration of the admirable new land settlement and
finance scheme, largely brought about by Mr. Walter
Lawrence. The villages are protected now from the
exactions of State officials when their gardens or crops
appear in too flourishing condition, and their lives
rendered far easier.
My distant view of the lake in the morning had
incited me to a nearer and closer examination of its
beauties and strange crops. Accordingly, soon after my
twelve o’clock breakfast (I generally kept to the down-
country meals, viz., early cup of tea, mid-day “ brunch,”
and late dinner) my small “ shikar ” was alongside the
doonga, and, with four men to paddle, went away at a
good pace towards the Dal Darwaza, where the tremendous
tide rushing out necessitated the impressing of two
extra men to pull me through.
On the Jhelum three types of boat are in
general use, though there are many modifications
of these typical patterns—the “ doonga,” which
I have already described, and which is the living
boat; the bahat, which is an enormous barge for conveying
stone or wood, and is high at the stern and prow,