of the onlookers added a thunderous chorus. As usual,
the only man who accomplished anything was that
ubiquitous man-of-all-works, the “ British Sergeant,”
who turned up from a transport cart in the nick of time;
sorted mail bags, sorted passengers, dragged ponies on
to their legs, and in five minutes we were back in our
respective vehicles and rolling along our uneven way.
Twenty-three miles out the road began to mount
steadily, and the faint dawn revealed our weary features
to one another. I t was amusing the efforts made by
each one to discover the likeness of his fellow-traveller,
and having at one of the “ intervals to change ponies ”
(they are changed every six or seven miles) been
satisfied with our mutual sniffs, a spasmodic conversation
was started which waxed on the smooth portions
of the road and waned as we bumped laboriously over
the rougher parts. Up and up we zig-zagged, emerging
from the mists in the valley into sunlight above, a
sunlight which glistened on dew-sprinkled roses, masses
of clematis hanging in wreaths from white-leaved
poplars and silvery willows, and cheered a scene where
all seemed decked as for a world-wedding in bridal
white, the creamy berberis and pink rhododendrons
only showing off the general “ snowiness.”
By nine we were at Murree looking out on tree-clad
heights, mountains all round, mountains backing each
other as far as eye could reach, and the cold wind
caught and wrapped and penetrated one till all memory
of the heat and stuffiness of the cantonment now lying
far below hidden in mists seemed incredible; they were
things quite apart and cut off from this brisk climate.
Here were people walking about in fur cloaks, Tommies
in thickest overcoats, natives with their heads in
voluminous comforters, and a big fire blazing in the
“ guest room ” of the hotel was hailed with joy.
We could not stay round it for long, and by ten I
had started on the second stage of my long drive in a
tonga of exactly the same build as the one in which I
had ascended to Murree. Slung on two wheels, it was
in shape something like a low pony cart, the two seats
placed back to back, a canopy over it protecting us
partially from rain and sun. The ponies were harnessed
Tonga
one between the shafts, the other giving “ outside help,”
and running quite independently save for one strap.
The system sounds impossible, but in practice worked
fairly well, the wickeder animal having free scope for
his sins, the milder keeping the vehicle straight on its
path, assisted by the forward jerks of its companion.
The road was very steep and slippery, and we proceeded
a t a pace distinctly to be marked “ prestissimo.”
Suddenly the rain clouds broke and emptied themselves,
and it was as if the heavens were descending in sheets