splendid shade from the bank for boats, and great
trees dotted about on the grass make a pleasant cover
to the many white tents that, like huge mushrooms,
had sprung up during my absence, the first warm
weather having brought many folk up from the Punjab
to enjoy the welcome cool in the northern valley.
They made the Moonshi Bagh a first stopping-place
on their way to quarters in the hills, and very comfortable
and often very pretty were their temporary
houses, hung about with baskets of ferns and iris,
inviting groups of light tables and chairs placed outside
the open flaps, while numerous small fry, with the
attendant cortege considered necessary for the rising
generation of the dominant race, nurse, ayah-boy, and
bearer, with frequent addition of pony and “ pony-boy,,>
dog and “ dog-boy,” proved that the climate was salubrious
to youth and provocative of a great show of roses in
what were probably very pale cheeks down in the plains.
The cold freshness of morning and evening, too, made
for a liveliness impossible in more relaxing parts.
Silently we glided into our quarters, and
took up a good position beneath a huge chenaar
tree, the doonga was made fast, a plank run
out to the bank, steps cut, then as darkness
fell, lamps were lighted, the straw blinds let
down, and I was as cut off and almost as unknowing of
my neighbours as when far away up in the Sind Valley,
though pleasant little friendly notes arrived in the
evening, and some very welcome presents of “ dalis ”
(baskets of vegetables and fruits) spoke of the advantages
of neighbours when these are kindly and
thoughtful. My “ following ” had no “ doubts ” as to
the relative delights of solitary or sociable sojournings,
and many friends and relations came to the boat in the
course of the evening to enjoy a smoke and hear what
had befallen during the journey up to Sonamerg. Where
news passes so quickly from one to another as in this
paradise of gossips, it was impossible not to have the
return noised abroad, and next morning merchants and
Sahib log seemed equally aware that my boat had once
more taken its place among them.