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CONTENTS
PAGE
I n t roduc tion t .............................................................................................. ix
L ist of P lants - - - - - - x x ix
CHAPTER I
Of the curious habits of babus and tongas—Of the wickedness of ponies,
and disagreeables of an overcrowded dak bungalow—The .Jhelura Valley 1
CHAPTER II
Of dak bungalows and doongas—A coachman without a soul—And a
boatman with imagination—Music on the water—Housekeeping details
and female fashions - - - - - - - - - - 1 4
CHAPTER III
Lazy hours—I cry “ Excelsior,” but the snows say “ No Back to towns—
A sheep is sacrificed S Shrines passedEand the chapter ends with song 20
CHAPTER IV
Of religions, painful and otherwise—How I seek seeularity along a scorching
road and am made to take part in sacred rites—I write a character for
a saint—And am rewarded with roses and watercress 40
CHAPTER V
Aching blisters and scented blossoms—Ancient palaces and living princes—
A visit to neglected shrines and a savoury s u p p e r................................. 53