walk or ride, had travelled about the easier portions of
Kashmir in a dandy carried by four porters, and was
far stronger and better than when she started,' and
felt that the efforts made to leave her comfortable
home and invalid arrangements had been amply repaid
by her improved health and the pleasures of the life she
had led.
Some countries only impress by their grandeur,
some by their charm and the grateful colour of their
flower-clad champaigns, while others are attractive as
affording scope for exploration or sport. In K a s hm ir
each of these things may be enjoyed, with the additional
delights of a healthy climate and friendly inhabitants.
Therefore, to one and all who can go, I say go and
see for yourselves! and the harvest of happy memories
garnered, the wealth of pictures left in the brain—of
sunshiny hours among the snow-crowned hills, and
visions of blue waters and bright flowers—the treasures
of thought and the suggestions that will have passed
from the surrounding scenery into the very source of
our life will be an unfading pleasure, a rich reward
when once again we “ crawl under grey skies,” and are
choked between narrow walls and huddled in dull
streets.
I t is not given to man often to be completely
content or happy for long together, for which
reasons my stay in the Kashmir Valley is endowed with
the interest appertaining to unusual experience, an
experience that has left my heart full of gratitude to
the fates that be, for the gift of a solid block of golden
halo’d memories.
INDEX
A g r ic u l t u r e and Horticulture in Kashmir,
268
Akbar, invasion,of Kashmir by, 237
Amarnath, peak and sacred cave of, 218
Amiran Kadal bridge, 165, 168
Anchar Lake, 78, 121
Apharwat, Mt., ascent of, 205
Architectural questions, 68
Asoka, King of Kashmir, 233
Assiza, the doonga-man, and his family
and wife, 16, 20, 23
Atchibal, former glories of, 47, visit to,
53, description of, 56, royal travellers
near, 57
Avantipura, ruins at, 67, traditions of,
68
Avantivarma, King of Kashmir, 255
Baltal, historic associations of, 98
Baiti women, goodlooks of, 83, costume
of, 84, 97
Baltistan, game in, 225
Bandipura, importance of, 22, 29
Baramula, 14
Bawan, forest glade at, 45
Bhumju, rock temple at, 70
Bijbeharra, described, 37
Boats (doongas) and boatmen a t Bara-
mulla, 15
used on the Jhelum, 135
Bombay in July, 263
Botany of Kashmir, need for catalogue
of, 210
Bridges, 12, 37, 165, 168
in Srinagar, 167
I British possession and cession of Kashmir,
239, 240
Brocades of Kashmir, 164 .
Building in Kashmir, 233, 234
Buddhism, past, in Kashmir, 233, few
present traces of, 71
CARFET-weaving trade in Srinagar, 155-7
Cave temples near the Liddar river, 46
Chak race of Kashmir, troubles due to,
237
Chenaar Bagh, men’s camping-ground in
Srinagar, 127
Coinage in Kashmir, 243
Cold, how met in Srinagar, 169
Conveyances, DAk cart, 248, Ekkas, 9,
Tongas, 5
Costume, male and female, 15, 23, 28, 84,
96 ; Hindu and Mahomedan in Srinagar,
124, 129, 131
Cottage Hospital, Srinagar, 270-1
D a k , or mail cart, a journey in, 248
Dal Lake, 74, floating gardens of, 127,
136, mountains seen from, 143
Didda, Queen of Kashmir, 235
Dogra Hindus a t Srinagar, physical
characteristics and costume of, 124 ;
true racial distinction implied by the
term Dogra, 239
Doongas and their outfit, 18, comfort of
as abodes, 20
E cho L a k e , above Killenmerg, 208
Enamel ware, 158
Engineering works in Kashmir, 13