road contractors, builders, and engineers. In fact,
wherever brains are required to direct and control, there
are berths for Englishmen with some technical training,
and a reasonable amount of energy and perseverance.
Among other purely mercantile businesses that have
been taken up by our countrymen are two agencies.
“ Cockbum’s ” has achieved a wide reputation for the
ever-ready courtesy and consideration with which all
orders are undertaken by them, and for the infinite care
and attention they bestow on the carrying out of the
many and strange requests that they receive.
I would strongly advise all going to travel in Kashmir
to make their first visit to this well-stocked house, for
the practical advice of the managers on all subjects connected
with travel is to be thoroughly relied on, and their
recommendations as to boats and servants, etc., are
valuable and of great assistance. Hiring all camp and
river necessaries saves a great amount of worry and
expense too, for the heavy rates for transport from
Pindi to Srinagar are the heaviest items of the cost for
a temporary sojourner.
Of late years various discomforts that tended to discourage
visitors to Srinagar have been removed. A
comfortable little dak bungalow has been built, so that
those arriving up tired, or possibly suffering from the
long tonga journey, have now some comfortable place
where they can recover themselves and collect their
various necessaries before starting life in a boat or under
canvas».
Of even greater value to Europeans has been the
beautiful little cottage hospital, which I have mentioned
elsewhere, which is now in working order,
attractive in its outward aspect and perfect in its
interior arrangements. Before its completion any
travellers in need of medical or surgical care fared badly,
without solid Walls and roof to shelter them. Under the
casual care of chance friends, suffering probably from
the great change in climate, there was little chance of
recovery if overtaken by any of the diseases contracted
in the plains, or disabled by any of the accidents likely
to happen to wanderers in strange lands. Now they
can be sure of excellent attendance and advice, comfortable
quarters, coolness, and the best of food and medi-
Cottage Hospital, Srinagar
cine. Such an institution, established in such distant
parts, is a monument of energy and organisation, and all
who benefit by this real haven of rest will feel very
grateful to those on whom the labour and work of such
an undertaking have fallen.
With the last bars to a happy visit removed, none
need fear to face the small difficulties of the expedition.
During my wanderings I met a lady of more energy
than strength, who, quite unable from bad health to