After crossing a bridge over the main stream the
path, curving upwards, joined together two or three
green terraces till the forest region was reached. Some
way to the left below the forest could be seen the
charred ruins of the old summer station, which once
boasted a church and post office, besides various
bungalows, but was totally destroyed by fire some years
ago. The present camping-ground is some two miles
beyond on an I upland green,” from which the hills
have receded on either side, leaving the river to make
its way through a fairly broad valley. Dark clouds
were hanging over the snow peaks, a chill breeze had
sprung up and whistled with dismal threatening
through the trees, many of which were still bare, as I
made my way to the little village, where I thought it
just possible I might find letters brought up from
Srinagar by relays of swift runners. The scene was
sadly desolate, grey skies above, grey waters below, and
the moisture-laden atmosphere had changed the purity
of the mountain’s snowy dress to a like leaden hue. I
was glad enough to reach the office of Her Majesty’s
mails, and to find folk who could understand lowland
bat (talk), for the hill folk I had been meeting had all
strange lingos of their own. I found some notes, heard
very dismal forecasts of the weather, and had the
pleasure of looking through a small heap of letters
which informed me by their addresses who were expected
in this far-away centre of news. For the greater part
they were for various sportsmen still camping on the
heights beyond the Zogi La shooting, and many of
them had been waiting for months. I t is a strange
thing how soon we accustom ourselves to doing wihout
what are usually considered necessaries. Talk to folk
at home of only getting letters once a fortnight and
they will hold up their hands in horror at the notion
of such outlandish arrangements, but once wander
away in search of new interests and pursuits, and
months without news of the outer world will scarcely
seem a hardship. I learned that I was the only lady
who had been up the valley that season. The snows
were falling later than usual, and the occasional summer
travellers had not thought of putting in an appearance.
The postmaster warned me that the latest arrivals from
the pass spoke of bad weather threatening, and advised
me if I did not wish to have my camp bodily swept
away to make everything very tight.
This I proceeded to see to, when late in the afternoon,
after many difficulties, my baggage ponies arrived.
The ground was much exposed, and the wind having
risen to a tempest, with threatenings of snow, it was
extremely difficult to pitch the tents. This, however,
we eventually succeeded in doing, but a regular dinner
was beyond the skill even of the faithful Assiza, though
he managed to keep a fire lighted and to melt some
good condensed soup I had, which, thickened with
plenty of rice, formed an excellent supper. Ihen,
rolling; myself up in every available wrap, I turned in,
a hot stone, which had served to shelter the fire, being
brought close to the charpoy (bed) to keep my feet
from getting numb. I t was not a cheerful position,
and the prospect of being snowed up. is not, a rosy one
to a person always inclined to be chilly! About dawn
the wind moderated, the temperature rose considerably,
and the tent having quite decided to stand firm, I was
able to get a good sleep.