at the corners by curious wooden tassels. The lower
screening walls were covered with the pretty mauve
blooms of the allium (sphaerocephalum), altogether a
tempting place for worship. As it was a Friday, and
the faithful were eagerly crowding to do their weekly
duty, I was informed I might not enter, having eaten
meat for my breakfast. This was a false assumption,
but I did not correct it, knowing that especial graces
may always be purchased, and the newer form of
“ persecuting the infidel ” not being viewed with favour
Pony with, saddle, the high peak of which served
as a pommel
by me; but, noticing my lack of enthusiasm, the great
doors were suddenly thrust open, and I was asked to
admire, not the ancient carving of the temple, not the
gorgeous colour of flower and woodwork, not the quaint
conceits of old decorations, but five tombs of long-
departed saints covered with dirty rags, once fine
embroideries. Every one gave a quick salaam, watching
me at the same time out of the corners of their eyes,
to see to how much filthy lucre my admiration would
run. I t was expressed in a quite modest sum, to the
chagrin of the onlookers, and then mounting a tiny,
dainty tat with gaily-decorated saddle-cloth and saddle,
the high peak of which served excellently well as a
pommel, I wandered away under the shade of overarching
trees to a forest glade some six miles away,
called Bawan. Soft carpet of velvety turf, countless
sparkling streams—several of which feed a large tank
of sacred carp—plentiful beds of watercress, giant
chenaar trees that gave a generous shade to all these,
Group of Hanjis
made up an ideal camping-ground, where, during the
long, hot afternoon, I rested, and one of the hanjis
(boatmen) trolled out songs in the old, old theme, with
the old, old metaphors.
HANJTS LOVE SONG.
You are my flower, and I would fain adore you
With love and golden gifts for all my day s;
Burn scented oil in silver lamps before you,
Pour perfume on your feet with prayer and praise.