CHAPTER VI
Some ruins—Fragments of their supposed histories—Dry-as-dust details, and PA°E
a short discourse on religion in the valley - - - - - - 66
CHAPTER VII
An early start—A distressed damsel finds a strange cavalier—Snow slopes
and sandals—A lonely post office—Supper and sleep under difficulties - 77
CHAPTER VIII
For the second time am turned back by snowy passes—My camp and I have
a difference—Compensating circumstances—Hot march and a rose-
strewn grave - - - - - - . . _ . - 9 4
CHAPTER IX
A long, hot march, mitigated by many flowers and mulberries—I am offered
food, mental and physical, by a holy man—Rice growing, and the
benefits of widowhood—The knife th a t was lost is found, and my crew
r e j o i c e - 106
CHAPTER X
Of waves and whirlwinds—A lake with many flowers, narrow waterways,
and fair women—Return to civilization and green vegetables - . 118
CHAPTER XI
I go a pious pilgrimage—And am received with respect—Subsequent visits
to the gardens of emperors and empresses—With some remarks about
the raising of floating crops - - - - - - - - - 1 3 0
CHAPTER XII
A steep ascent leading to fine views and many backslidings—A fairy palace—
Precipitate descent and an old man’s warning - 144
CHAPTER XIII
I luxuriate in the spectacle of others’ labours—Some details as to arts and
crafts in Srinagar—A pleasant tea party and a late return - - - 152
CHAPTER XIV
PAGE
Water streets—A Sikh who desired proselytes—Possible faiths—A sick
Sahib—Some truisms of life in the t r o p i c s ............................................. 166
CHAPTER XV
I start for cooler regions—Good ponies and annoying attendants—I loose my
temper and feel the heat—Arrived in cooler regions—I arrange my
camp and note the colour of spring f l o w e r s .............................................178
„CHAPTER XVI
Worried by my camp—I wander into the woods—Am consoled by the trees
but depressed by the absence of Nanga Parbat—Catch a glimpse of him,
but my raptures are rudely interrupted by irrelevant menials - - 190
CHAPTER XVII
To escape damp I climb to greater elevations—Meet storms and stones
Return to the shelter of trees and sing the praises of botany - - 203
CHAPTER XVIII
Wishing for a day of experiences—I have one superfluous emotion Rater
I achieve the second object of my pilgrimage—An unrestful mount—
Other folks’ facts about the fauna of the land - 21
CHAPTER XIX
A few facts and still fewer names indicating the history of Kashmir Kings,
ancient and modern, of varying temperaments, ending with a model
r u, l e r .............................................. 231
CHAPTER XX
Of joltings and jarrings—Wild ponies and fair ways—A gentleman in khaki
discusses the empire with one of the holy army The seamy side of an
Indian summer—Homeward b o u n d ...................................................... ’ 245
Conclusion 265