disabuse the world in general of the idea that this lovely
valley is only to be reached by an undue expenditure
of physical force and nerve, to say nothing of filthy
lucre, I shall feel that I have not lived in vain, but
assisted somewhat in showing the “ open door ” of one
of the most perfect holiday grounds of the world,
offering nourishment to almost every imaginable
hobby—for what would our holidays be without our
hobbies? There the shikari, the student, the: man with
a taste for commerce, the soldier, the boating man, the
artist will find plenty of food for his especial taste,
even a philatellist of the most virulent type ought to
be satisfied with a State that perpetually produces new
stamps, and a numismatist can rack his brains as to
the meaning of the strange devices shown on some of
the modern coins, to say nothing of studying the ancient
specimens constantly dug up. The invalid will rejoice
in the exhilarating air, and the old man feel young
again, while the habitual pauper must be forced to own
the advantages of a land where a rupee will buy a
sheep, and eight a suit of homespun clothes.
The mistake made by most people wishing to travel
there is that they overburden themselves with preparations,
make up their baggage1 to the proportions
of a small Noah’s Ark, and endanger their digestions
by the variety of the tinned foods they provide.
Without stopping short at the proverbial “ flannel
shirt and pair of boots,” which many would say is the
whole extent of the explorer’s necessaire, it is only
adding to the burden of the flesh, and straining to an
unnecessary thinness the tempers of master and coolies,
if provision is made for every exigency in life, including
the leaving of it with proper pomp and circumstance.
A good servant will “ always provide” not only the
bare wherewithal of life, but such addenda as in his
estimation are warranted by the position of his master
and his own monthly wage. If he is well treated he
will return the compliment, will see to your comfort—
for his charge is more valuable to him alive than dead
—and in case of demise will superintend all arrangements
with a nice calculation as to the exact amount of
pomp suitable to your income and dignity.
All that is necessary before arriving in the country
is to provide one’s self with some strong footwear—
Kashmirian shoes, like many of their other manufactures,
belonging more to the beautiful than
durable order; any instruments and books required
by one’s special hobby—be it science, sport, or
a rt; some literature light in matter and form—
for coolies and ponies are the most formidable
item of expenditure; photographic apparatus and
saddlery, for want of which I suffered severely; and
if there is any likelihood that the gay throng of fashion
at Srinagar or Gulmerg will be entered, some English
gowns and millinery will go a long way towards
inspiring that respect that Englishwomen always hope
for from their own sex! In Srinagar may be purchased
all the ordinary requirements for life “ out of society.”
The homespuns woven all over the valley in the long
winter months may be bought for very little, and the