F a k ir a t Islam ab ad , 40, a t Manasbal, 110
Ferozepore nullah, 196
Fishing methods, 29
Floating gardens, Dhal Lake, 127, 136
Fruits of Kashmir, 134
G a g a n g a ir , lo v e ly c am p in g -g ro u n d a t,
86, 87
Game, four-footed and winged, in and
around Kashmir, 224-30
Game-laws of the country, 85, 224
Ganderbal, 78, whirlwinds at, 118
Garhi, the Jhula bridge at, 249, the
rest-house, 8
Gilgit, starting-point for, 22, routes to,
29
Gipsies, Indian and Kashmiree names
for, 37, a song by, 38
Greek influence on Kashmir architecture,
the question of, 68-70
Gujar natives, 197
Gulmerg, journey to, 186, stormy weather
at, 188, 193, 199, 203, mountains seen
from, 198
Gupcar suburb, Srinagar, Fiuropeans’
houses at, 133, 223
Gwash Brari, or Kolahoi Mountains, 23.
88, 132, elevation of, 218
H a r a m u k , triple peaks of, height a n d
traditions of, 23, seen from the Trag-
bal pass, 33, other views of, 88, 218,
97, 132
Hari Parbat fort, 132, 139, its builder,
237
Hindu costumes, 124, 129, 131
rulers,1 past and present, of Kashmir,
232, 239
j Horses and ponies, their characteristics,
Hindus in Srinagar, appearance and
domestic life of, 124, characteristics I
of, 125
History of Kashmir, its sources,, 233
Hop-growing a t Srinagar, 133, and Soper,
269
3, 6, 7, 9 passim
House-boats in Srinagar, 170
I ndian hotels, terrors of, 253
officials, their work and lives, 174
Irrigation works of former rulers, 232
Islamabad, eastern centre of Kashmir,
commerce, its Fakir, 40, adventure a t
the telegraph office, 42, other Fakirs,
43
J ehangir, buildings of, 109, 237
Jhelum river, boats used on, 135, buildings
along, in Srinagar,' 168, in flood,
168, seen from Gulmerg, 201
road, advantages of, 13
Kangan,- halt at, 80, journey from, 81,
mistletoe at, 80, 103
Karewas, the, described, 10,'184
Kashmir as a holiday ground, 265, as
a residence, 266, its climate and resources,
ib., openings in, 268
imperial service troops, 241
manufactures of, 265, - mineral
wealth of, ib.
native confidence in white integrity,
28, 242
old name of, in the days of Herodotus,
233
■ villagers, appearance and manners
] of, 27
working classes in, position of, 241
Killenmerg, first visit to, elevation of,
and view from, 205, 207, second visit,
the adventure, and the gréat reward,
216
Kohala,- last Indian village én route to
Kashmir, 7
Kolahoi, see Gwash Brari
“ Kushaba” process in rice cultivation,
26, described, 114
I Kuta Rani, Princess of Kashmir, 235
L adoo, small temple at, 70
Lalataditya, King of Kashmir, his good
and bad works, 234
Lawrence, Mr. W., his work in Kashmir,
135, 240, his book on Kashmir, 231
Liddar river, cave temples near, 46
Luggage, wandering of and eventual
safety, ,in Kashmir, 251
M agam, route to, 180, dak bungalow at,
182
Mahadeo sacred mountain, 98, triple
peak of, seen from different places,
132,.218
Maharajah Gulab Singh of Kashmir, 239,
240
—— Pertab Singh, his offer of horses
for South Africa, 102, his rule and
territory, 241
Ranbir Singh, introducer of viticulture,
108, 246
Manasbal Lake, journey to, 106, beauty
of and associations, 109, visit to the
Fakir of, 110, water-nuts of, 112
Manufactures of Kashmir, 152, 242,1 268
Mar Nulla, a t Srinagar, 122
Martand, ruin of, visit to, 58, difficulties
of the route, 59, interest attaching
to, 68, 61, its builder,' 70, associatio
n with Lalataditya, 234
Mihirakula, King of Kashmir, his penal
code and successors, 234
Mike, the dog, 199
Mineral wealth of Kashmir, 268
Mogul rulers of Kashmir, 237
Moonshi Bagh, ladies’ camping-ground,
Srinagar, 77, 127
Mosque of Shah Hamadan, Srinagar, 168
Mountains visible from Killenmerg, 218,
from Takht-i-Suleiman, 132, from the
Zogi I.a, 97, 98
Murree, discomforts of journey from, 253
N a g , or Naga (snake), worship, 71, 75,
234
Nanga Parbat Mountain, 33, fascination
of, 218, height of, 97, waiting for a
glimpse of, 200, the glimpse vouchsafed,
201, seen from Killenmerg, 216,
other views of, 221
Narastan, small temple at, 70
Nishat Bagh, historical associations of,
138
I Numdahs, and their uses, 19, 154
Nur Mahal’s garden, 138
P a n d r e t h a n temple and moat, 71-3
“■ Papier-mache ” ware, visit to a factory
of, 162
Patan, ruined temples at, 73
Pathan rule in Kashmir, 238
Payech, beautiful temple at, 70
Peri Mahal, visit to the ruins of, 144,
their beauty, 148
| Pindi, illness prevalent at, on return
I journey, 259
Pir Punjal peak, 21, 88, origin of the
.... name, 218, views of, 31, 132
Pony-breeding in Kashmir, 102
Poonch country, passes into, 218
Public works and buildings in Kashmir,
13, 243
Rai, disease of the rice, , 115
Rajatarangini of Kalhana, the chief
authority on early Kashmir history,
233
Ranaditya, builder of Martand, 70, his
wife, 60
Ranjit Singh, and Kashmir, 238-9
Red Sea, in July, 263
Religious toleration in Kashmir, 75, 233
Return journey from Kashmir, the, 245,
incidents of, Sikh and sergeant, a conversation,
258, illness a t Murree, 258,
fellow travellers, 260, meeting with
^ friends, 367
Revel, camp at, 82, return march to, 99
meeting with friends at, 101
Rice cultivation, the “ kushaba,” 26,
j 114, the “ r a i ” disease, 115