C H A P T E R X L V
ON THE ROAD
SIX T Y -O N E miles of cart-road cover the distance
from the river to the mines. They say a motorcar
is on its way from Europe, and that when it comes
the favoured traveller will rush across in a day. I
wonder what the placid cattle, the stout little ponies,
and the nervous mules, as they come tinkling down
the hillside, will think of their new competitor; but,
for my part, I prefer the leisurely ride on horseback,
up the cobbled bridle-paths, over the level rice-fields,
and through the bamboo aisles of the forest. There
are houses by the way, well equipped for the European
traveller; villages and outposts ; and great company
for one who cares for it. There are Panthay mule
men, packmen from the Shan hills, bullock-carters,
and armed men in the service of the King. There
are long convoys of rationing mules and ponies, with
the comfortable air that distinguishes all Government
animals from the lean and ragged beasts of the Panthay
caravans. There is a painted gig being carried up on
a bullock-cart for a successful ruby-trader; a smart led
pony equipped with an English saddle, in the care of
758 I
a Musulman groom ; there are carved and gilded poles,
and mosaic Buddhas, and many articles of monastic
decoration ; all the outcome of some one’s success in
the gamble of life at Mog6k.
It is a life fraught with vicissitudes, and the pious
builder of a gilded monastery, the late owner of a big
PANTHAY MULETEER EN ROUTE TO TH E RUBY MINES
house at Kyatpyin, is to-day the philosophic driver
of a bullock-cart. Fortune has turned her back upon
him ; but she cannot conceal the merit he has won
by his piety, and cart-driver though he has become,
he still remains Kyaung-taga U Saw, “ Venerable-
Builder-of-a-Monastery ” Saw ; and herein' dwells the
wisdom of the innocents.
Wapyi-daung, ten and a half miles from the river, is