who can essay the arduous climb. The view it offers
is one of extraordinary variety and beauty, and it may
fittingly be described in the words of the first white man
who climbed up to it: “ At the base of the western
mountains the Salwin is seen plunging down its mighty
waters to Martaban and Maulmain, where they are
joined by the Gyaing, that bounds the prospect on the
south and east, while little islands of forest trees, each
concealing beneath its shade a quiet hamlet, dimple
the whole plaini and babbling brooks thread their
wandering ways like veins of silver, or mark the courses
of their hidden waters by the emerald hue of their
banks. On the inner side the spectator is astonished
to find himself on the edge of a large basin, like the
crater of an extinct volcano. Around, and beyond, on
the opposite side of the gulf, for miles in extent, dark
precipitous gaps, of every imaginable and unimaginable
form, fling down their tall shadows a thousand feet
about the place of entrance, enclosing an area of several
square miles.”
Pha-an itself is one of the chief centres of trade
with the Shan States, and here, unexpectedly to the
traveller fresh from the distant northern frontier of
Bhamo, are reproduced within thirty miles of a seaport
the picturesque elements of frontier life and trade—
Panthay caravans and merchandise from China, traders
and mulemen, and the thronging of many races. Of
nights when the river is silent, one can hear from the
high mud-cliffs the baying of the Panthay dogs, and the
laughter of muleteers; and one can see in the darkness
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