1795- April. Captain Caffada, to the levee of the Biffiop'of Chili, which always commences
on the conclufion of the Prefident’s. Here we were again received
with the fame, politenefs and affability whicl} had marked our reception
at Don Ambrofio’s. The Bifhop is addrelfed by the title of
lllvjlriflima, and the palace in which he conftantly rejides, in point of
magnificence and Ihow, exceeded, in a great degree, every houfe in St.
Jago, not excepting the Prefident’s, to whom the Bifhop is the next per-
fon in rank and confequence. The rooms here were not fo large as
thofe of the royal palace, but they were fufficiently capacious and well
proportioned; the walls were hung with yellow filk, fcfl.bor.cd at the
top, the furniture was rather gaudy than elegant, yet every objeft be-
fpoke the richnefs and exalted ftation of the illuftrious owner. The
Bilhop was drelfed in a loofq clerical garment of purple filk, buttoned
clofe, with a fort of apron that extended round his waift, and reached
below his .knees. This part of his drefs, I was given to underftand,
is commonly worn in Spain by the dignitaries of the church.
The fame perfons who had attended the levee of His Excellency, repaired
with us to the palace Qf the Bilhop ; but thei'r deportment here, in
point of refpeft, far exceeded that which had been Ihewn to the Prefident.
Many priefts attended the levee, one of whom always conduced to the
Bilhop the perfon who was to be introduced, who when fufficiently near,
bent one knee, and received in that fubmiffive attitude the benediftion of
the church. On this occafion, the Bifhop with one handmade the
figure of a crofs over the head o f the perfon introduced, whilft he pre-
fented a ring which he wore on a finger of the other, to receive an
.additional homage, paid by touching it with the lips, as in the aft of
kiffing. This ceremony was not reftrifted to a few, for we did not
perceive any one in the group that did not go through i t ; and, as
I had made it a conftant rule to conform, on all occafions, to the innocent
manners and cuftoms of whatever country we might chance to
vifit, I ffiould not have hefitated to perform the like ceremony on our
introduftion, had the flighted: hint been given, either by Don Ramon
o r Captain Calfada, that it would be expefted from u s ; but, as their
. i - filence
filence left us completely to our own feelings, we each of us (imply made W
our bow, which appeared to be as well accepted, and to receive as gra- <---- ,---- '
cious a benediftion, as if we had adopted the other cuftomary formality.
The Bifhop made many very pertinent inquiries refpefting the countries
We had vifited, and feemed to have gréât pleafure in the little information
we were able to afford him ; for, at this time, we had not an
interpreter with us, who fo perfeftly comprehended what we defcribed in
Englifh as to make a faithful tranflation of it to the Prelate ; and I do not
reColleft that I ever felt more real regret, than on this occafion, that I
did not fufficiently underhand the Spaniffi language to hold a converfa-
tion with this apparently intelligent gentleman, who was pleafed to embrace
every opportunity of bellowing fome encomium On our late re-
fearches, and to offer his congratulations on our having fo happily concluded
them. '
From the Bifhop’s palace we were condufted, by our friends, to the
houfes of the judges and great officers Of date, in all of which we
experienced the fame cordiality and friendlinefs, and received the fame
preffing intreaties to vifit their families as had uniformly been offered
b y every perfon with whom we had become acquainted fince our firft
arrival in this hofpitable country. About two o’clock we returned to
the palace, where we found the Prefident Waiting Our arrival for dinner,
which was ferved up on a plain deal ill-conftrufted table, by no means
correfpondirig with the magnificence of the dinner fervice, which was
intirely compofed of filver. The company conliltcd of the Prefident,
Don Ramon de Rofas, Captain Caffada, and ourfelves ; and die con-
verfation turned chiefly on the late labours of our furvey, and the dif-
coveries We had made on the coaft of North-Weft America, which
were repeatedly honored with the moft flattering commendatiohs from
the Captain-General, who appeared to be extremely interefted in the
events which we related.
After drinking coffee, which is always brought in as foon as the cloth
is removed, every one retired to his private apartment, a caftom which
fo generally prevails in this kingdom, that, between the hours of three
in