>795' next evening amongft fome of their particular friends, than to avoid
i Ap'-' i the heat; a meafure on which, however, much of our comfort might
very poffibly depend.
From the top of Praow the landfcape was very interefting. To the
eaftward ftretched the extenfive valley in which St. Jago is fituated, and
which was terminated by the lofty ftupendous Andes, whofe fummits exhibit
perpetual winter. In the, oppofite direftion’ the view of the country
was not lefs worthy of our attention; a great number of mud hovels
were now difcerned, that had before efcaped our notice as we had travelled
along, and we now underftood that the valley through which we
had juft pafled was conftderably more inhabited, efpecially near Praow,
than thofe parts of the country nearer to Valparaifo. The people are
chiefly peafantry, whofe principal employment is' to take care of fome
oxen and fheep that feed in the vicinity of their feveral huts.
We defcended Praow to the north-eaft, by fewer pafles than we had
afcended on its oppofite fide,>: as the valley in which St. Jago is bti'ilt is
much higher than the other two acrofs which we had travelled; the general
charafter of the country being that o f an inclined plane riling
towards St. Jago, although its furface is broken by the ridges of
mountains before defcribed. The road ftill continued in an eaftern di-
reflion, and was here as well made and as broad as the turnpike roads in
England. On either fide were feveral fmall orchards, and a few plantations
with fome indifferent pafture land, on which cattle were feen grazing
under the fhade of a few fcattered trees; but the general want of
cultivation gave the face of the country a barren and wild appearance,
deftitute of any feature that could indicate our approaching fo large
and populous a city as that of St. Jago; the only people we faw were two
or three travellers; and a few muleteers.
We flopped to breakfaft about fifteen miles from the capital, whofe
loftyTpires were now plainly difcerned^ towering above the numerous
houfes which the city appeared to contain. Notwithftanding our prelent
vicinity .to fo large a town, we found no other place for the accommodation
of travellers than the mud hovel, where we were entertained in
the fame way as we had been before; and where, like the others at which
i we
we had flopped, there was no fign of any improvement whatever, either ^795-
in the building, or in any other refpeft that might add to the comfort '----y— 1
of life; the fame want of cleanlinefs, and wretched condition which I
have before had occafion to remark, continued here to debafe the cha-
rafter of the inhabitants, who, notwithftanding their external appearance
of wretchednefs and mifery, wore neverthelefs a contented look, and, together
with a cheerful countenance polfelfed a difpofition to oblige that
was extremel-y grateful to our feelings, though their exceflive indolence
and inaffivity created in us a mixed fentiment of pity and reproach. In
addition to the ufual fupplies we had found on our journey, we here procured
fome excellent water melons of luxuriant growth and in high per-
feftion, which were very refrefhing and acceptable.
Having finilhed our breakfaft we again refumed our journey; the road
was level, broad, and firm, and we had not travelled far, before on each
fide of it were feen plantations and vineyards, in each of which a neat
white houfe was generally fituated at a little diftance from the road. The
appearance of cultivation and fertility in thefe low lands, when contrafted
with the ftupendous fummits of the Andes, produced a moft agreeable
effeft, and rendered-this part of our journey very pleafant and entertaining.
After a fmart ride o f nearly two hours, we arrived at a houfe
about a mile from the capital, where fatigue, and a journey of ninety
miles, made it neceflary that we Ihould halt; not only for the purpofe of
taking fome reft and refrefhment, but alfo that we might equip ourfelves
for the vifit of ceremony ,we were about to make to the Captain General.
From hence I difpatched one of the dragoons who had attended us with
a letter to His Excellency, announcing our arrival in the vicinity of the
capital, and ftating, that with his permiflion we would do ourfelves the
honor of paying our refpefils to him at the palace in the evening; and I
gave further direftions to the dragoon, to procure and fend from St. Jago,
carriaves fufficientto convey thither the whole party. In the mean time
our dinner was provided and ferved, and it was our intention as foon as
that Ihould be over to drefs ourfelves in all our beft apparel, that we
might make as uniform an appearance on this occafion as our feveral
flocks of clothing would enable us to do; for the extreme length of the
voyage