about ten miles to one of the river-flats, which was
covered with wild apple-trees, whose fruit, when stewed
with sugar, we found palatable. The river, though still
swollen, was comparatively clear; the rains usually
ceasing, or at least moderating, in October.
During the second day’s march we were stopped at
the Taktoong river by the want of a bridge, which the
Singtam Soubah refused to exert himself to have
repaired; its waters were, however, so fallen, that our
now large party soon bridged it with admirable skill.
We encamped the second night at Chateng, and the
following day made a long march, crossing the Zemu,
and ascending half-way to Tallum Samdong. The
alpine foliage was rapidly changing colour; and that of
the berberry turning scarlet, gave a warm glow to the
mountains above the forest. Lamteng village was
deserted; turnips were maturing near the houses, and
buckwheat on the slope behind; the latter is a winter-
crop at lower elevations, and harvested in April. At
Zemu Samdong the willow-leaves were becoming sear
and yellow, and the rose-bushes bore enormous scarlet
hips, two inches long, and covered with bristles; they
were sweet, and rather good eating. Near Tungu
(where we arrived on the 9th) the great Sikkim currant
was in fru it; the berries are much larger than the
English, and of the same beautiful red colour, but
bitter and very acid; they are, however, eaten by the
Tibetans.
Near the village I found Dr. Campbell remonstrating
with the Lachen Phipun on the score of the delays
and rude treatment I had received in June and J u ly :
the man, of course, answered every question with
falsehoods; such being the custom of these people;
and he produced the Rajah’s orders for my being
treated with every civility, as a proof that he must
have behaved as he ought ! The Singtam Soubah, as
was natural, hung back, for it was owing to him alone
that the orders had been contravened, and the Phipun
appealed to the bystanders for the truth of this.
The Phipun (accompanied by his Larpun or subordinate
officer) had prepared for us a sumptuous
refreshment of tea-soup, which was brewing by the
road-side, and in which all animosities were soon
washed away. We took up our abode at Tungu in a
wooden hut under the great rock, where we were detained
for several days by bad weather : I was assured
that during all August and September the weather
had been uniformly gloomy, as at Momay, though
little rain had fallen.
We had much to do in purchasing blankets* for
some of the people, and arranging for our journey, to
which the Lachen Phipun was favourable, promising
us ponies. The vegetation around was wholly changed
since my July visit: the rhododendron scrub was
verdigris-green from the young leaves which burst
in autumn; the jungle was spotted yellow with the
withered birch, maple and mountain-ash, and scarlet
with berberry bushes ; while above, the pastures were
yellow-brown with the dead grass, and streaked with
snow.
* These were made of goat’s wool, teazed into a satiny surface by little
teazle-like brushes of bamboo.