gorges, through whose tributary torrents we waded; or
crossed swampy terraced fiats of debris above the
stream; whilst it was sometimes necessary to round
rocky promontories in the river, stemming the foaming
torrent, as, one by one, we were dragged along by powerful
Lepchas. Our halting-places were on flats close to
the river, covered with large trees, and carpeted with a
most luxuriant herbage, amongst which a wild buckwheat
(Polygonum) was abundant, which formed an
excellent spinach: it is called “ Pullop-bi; ” a name I
shall hereafter have occasion to mention with gratitude.
A few miles above Choongtam, we passed some
cottages, hut between this and Lamteng, the country is
uninhabited, nor is it frequented during the rains. We
consequently found that the paths had suffered, the
little bridges and aids to climb precipices and cross
landslips had been carried away, and at one place we
were all but turned hack. This was at the Taktoong
river, a tributary on the east bank, which rushes down
in a sheet of silvery foam, eighteen yards broad. I t
does not flow in a deep gulley, having apparently raised
its bed by an accumulation of enormous boulders; and
a plank bridge was thrown across it, against whose
slippery and narrow foot-boards the water dashed,
loosening the supports on either bank, and rushing
between their foundation-stones.
My unwilling guide had gone ahead with some of
the coolies: I had suspected him all along (perhaps
unjustly) of avoiding the most practicable routes; but
when I found him waiting for me at this bridge, to
which he sarcastically pointed with his bow, I felt that
had he known of it, to have made difficulties before
would have been a work of supererogation. He seemed
to think I should certainly turn back, and assured me
there was no other crossing (a statement I afterwards
found to be untrue); so, comforting myself with the
hope that if the danger were imminent, Meepo would
forcibly stop me, I took off my shoes, and walked
steadily over: the tremor of the planks was like that
felt when standing on the paddle-box of a steamer, and
I was jerked up and down, as my weight pressed them
into the boiling flood, which shrouded me with spray.
I looked neither to the right nor to the left, lest the
motion of the swift waters should turn my head, but
kept my eye on the white jets d’eau springing up
between the woodwork, and felt thankful when fairly on
the opposite b an k : my loaded coolies followed, crossing
one by one without fear or hesitation. The bridge was
swept into the Lachen very shortly afterwards.
Towards Lamteng, the path left the river, and passed
through a wood of Abies Smithiana. Larch appeared at
9000 feet, with Abies Brunoniana. An austere crab-
apple, walnut, and the willow of Babylon (the two
latter perhaps cultivated), yellow jessamine and ash, all
scarce trees in Sikkim, were more or less abundant in
the valley, at about 7000 fe e t; as was an ivy, very like
the English, but with fewer and smaller yellow or
reddish berries; and many other plants, not found at
equal elevations on the outer ranges of the Himalaya^
Chateng, a spur from the lofty peak of Tukcham, rises
1000 feet above the west bank of the riv e r; and where
I crossed it commanded one of the finest alpine views