except a kid, a few handfuls of flour, and some potatos,
which had been sent from Choongtam. All my endeavours
to gain information respecting the distance
and .position of the frontier were unavailing ; the
villagers calling all the lofty pastures a few marches
beyond Lamteng “ Bhote ” or “ Cheen ” (Tibet). Dr.
Campbell had procured for me information by which I
might recognise the frontier were I once on it ; hut no
description could enable me to find my way in a
country so rugged and forest-clad, through tortuous
and perpetually forking valleys, along often obliterated
paths, and under cloud and rain. To these difficulties
must be added the deception of the rulers, and the fact
(of which I was not then aware), that the Tibet frontier
was formerly at Choongtam; hut from the Lepchas
constantly harassing the Tibetans, the latter, after the
establishment of the Chinese rule over their country,
retreated first to Zemu Samdong, a few hours’ walk
above Lamteng, then to Tallum Samdong, 2000 feet
higher; and, lastly, to Kongra Lama, 16,000 feet up
the west flank of Kinchinjhow.
On the 3rd of June I took a small party, with my
tent, and such provisions as I had, to explore up the
river. On hearing of my intention, the Phipun
volunteered to take me to the frontier, which he said
was only two hours distant, at Zemu Samdong, where
the Lachen receives the Zemu river from the westward:
this I knew must be false, but I accepted his services,
and we started, accompanied by a large body of
villagers, who eagerly gathered plants for me along
the road.
The scenery was very pretty; the path crossed
extensive and dangerous landslips, or ran through fine
woods of spruce and Abies Brunoniana, and afterwards
along the river-banks, which were fringed with willow
(called | Lama ”) and Hippophae. A great red rose,
one of the most beautiful Himalayan plants, whose
single flowers are as large as the palm of the hand,
was blossoming, while golden Potentillas and purple
primroses bordered the stream.
Just above the fork of the valley, a wooden bridge
(Samdong) crosses the Zemu, which was pointed out to
me as the frontier, and I was entreated to respect two
sticks and a piece of worsted stretched across i t ; this
I thought ridiculous, so as my followers halted on one
side, I went on the bridge, threw the sticks into the
stream, crossed, and asked the Phipun to follow ; the
people laughed, and came over: he then told me that
he had authority to permit of my botanising there, but
that I was in Cheen, and that he would show me
the guard-house to prove the truth of his statement.
He accordingly led me up a steep hank to an extensive
flat, several hundred feet above the river, amid the
jungle of which were several ruined stone houses, with
thick walls pierced with loopholes: these had no doubt
been occupied by Tibetans at the time when this was
the frontier.
The elevation which I had attained (that of the river
being 8,970 feet) being excellent for botanising, X
camped; and the villagers, contented with the supposed
success of their strategy, returned to Lamteng.
My guide from the Durbar had stayed behind at