CHAPTER XIX.
Routes from Choongtam to Tibet frontier—Choice of that by the Lachen
river—Arrival of supplies—Departure—Features of the valley
Eatable Polygonum—Gross Taktoong river—Pines, larches, and other
trees—Chateng pool—Water-plants and insects—Tukcham mountain
—T.a.rn+.eng village—Inhabitants—Alpine monkey—Botany of temperate
Himalaya—European and American fauna—Japanese and Malayan
genera—Superstitious objections to shooting—Customs of people
Rain—Run short of provisions—Altered position of Tibet frontier *
Zemu Samdong—Imposition— Vegetation—Uses of pines—Ascent to
Thlonnk river—Balanophora wood for making cups—Snow-beds—
Eatable mushrooms and Smilacina— Vievr of Kinchinjunga—Arum-
roots, preparation of for food—Liklo mountain Behaviour of my
party—Bridge constructed over Zemu—Cross river—Alarm of my
party—Camp on Zemu river.
F r om this place there were two routes to Tibet, each
of about six days’ joqmey. One lay to the north-west
up the Lachen valley to the Kongra Lama pass, the
other to the east up the Lachoong to the Donkia pass.
To both Donkia and Kongra Lama I had every right to
efo and was determined, if possible, to reach them, in
O *
spite of Meepo’s ignorance, our guide’s endeavours to
frighten my party and mislead myself, and the oountry
people’s dread of incurring the Dewan’s displeasure.
The Lachen valley being pronounced impracticable
in the height of the rains, a month later, it behoved me
to attempt it first, and it possessed the attraction of
leading to a frontier described as far to the northward
of the snowy Himalaya, on a lofty plateau, whose plants
and animals were different from anything I had
previously seen.
After a week the coolies arrived with supplies: they
had been delayed by the state of the paths, and
had consequently consumed a part of my stock,
reducing it to eight days’ allowance. I therefore
divided my party, leaving the greater number at
Choongtam, with a small tent, and instructions to
forward all food to me as it arrived. I started with
about fifteen attendants, on the 25th of May, for Lam-
teng, three marches up the Lachen.
Descending the step-formed terraces, I crossed the
Lachen by a good cane bridge.' The river is a headstrong
torrent, and turbid from the vast amount of
earthy matter which it hears along; and this character
of extreme impetuosity, unbroken by any still bend, or
even swirling pool, it maintains uninterruptedly at this
season from 4000 to 10,000 feet. I t is crossed three *
times by cane bridges, and I cannot conceive any
valley of a similar nature to he .more impracticable
at such a season. On both sides the mountains rose,
densely forest-clad, to 10,000 and 15,000 feet. Its
extreme narrowness, and the grandeur of its scenery,
were alike recalled to my mind, on visiting the Sachs
valley in the Valais of Switzerland; from which,
however, it differs in its luxuriant forest, and in the
slopes being more uniform and less broken up into
those imposing precipices so frequent in Switzerland.
At times we scrambled over rocks or descended into