two miles long and four broad, extending northward
to the base of Rinchinjhow. Its surface, though very
level for so mountainous a country, is yet varied with
open valleys and sloping hills, upwards of 500 feet
high : it is bounded on the west by low rounded spurs
from Kinchinjhow, that form the flank of the Lachen
valley; while on the east it is separated from Chango-
khang by the Chachoo, which cuts a deep east and
west trench immediately under the cliffs of Kinchinjhow,
and then turns south to the Tunguchoo. The lower
course of the Chachoo is most curious; it meanders
in sickle-shaped curves along the marshy bottom of an
old lake-bed, with steep shelving sides, 500 feet deep,
and covered with juniper bushes. I t is fed by the
glaciers of Kinchinjhow, and some little lakes to the east.
The mean height of Palung plains is 16,000 fe e t:
they are covered with transported blocks, and I have
no doubt their surface has been much modified by
glacial action. I was forcibly reminded of them by the
slopes of the Wengem Alp, but those of Palung are far
more level. The ice-clad cliffs of Kinchinjhow rise
before the spectator, ju st as those of the Jungfrau,
Monch, and Eigher Alp do from that magnificent
point of view.
On ascending a low hill, we came in sight of the
Tibet camp at the distance of a mile, when the great
mastiffs that guarded it immediately bayed; and our
ponies starting off at full gallop, we soon reached an
enclosure of stone dykes, within which the black tents
were pitched. The dogs were of immense size, and
ragged, like the yaks, from their winter coat hanging
to their flanks in great masses ; each was chained near
a large stone, on and off which he leapt as he gave
tongue; they are very savage, but great cowards, and
not remarkable for intelligence.
The people were natives of the adjacent province of
Dingcham, which is the loftiest, coldest, most windy
and arid in Eastern T i b e t t h e y repair yearly to
Palung, with their flocks, herds, and tents, paying
tribute to the Sikkim Rajah for the privilege : they
arrive in June and leave in September. Both men and
women were indescribably filthy; as they never wash,
their faces were perfectly black with smoke and
exposure, and the women’s with a pigment of grease
as a protection from the wind. The men were dressed
as usual in the blanket-cloak, with brass pipes, long
knives, flint, steel, and amulets ; the women wore
similar, but shorter cloaks, with silver and copper
girdles, trowsers, and flannel boots. Their headdresses
were very remarkable. A circular band of
plaited yak’s hair was attached to the back hair, and
encircled the head like a saint’s glory, at some distance
round it. A band crossed the forehead, from which
coins, corals, and turquoises, hung down to the
eyebrows, while lappets of these ornaments fell over
the ears. Their hair was plaited in two tails, brought
over the shoulders, and fastened together in fro n t; and
a little yellow felt cap, traversely elongated, so as not
to interfere with the shape of the glory, was perched on
the head. Their countenances were pleasing, and their
manners timid.
The children crawled half-naked about the tent, or