CHAPTER XVIII.
Arrangements for second journey into Sikkim—Opposition of Dewan
Lassoo Kajee—Tendong—Legend of flood—Lama of Silok-foke—
Namtchi—Tchebu Lama—Top of Tendong—Gigantic oak—Plants—
Teesta valley—Commencement of rains—Bhomsong—Ascent to
Latliiang—View—Gorh—Opposition of Lama Arrival of Meepo
Cross Teesta—Difficulties of travelling—Lepchas swimming—Moxa for
sprains—Singtam—Singtam Soubah—Bees1 -nests and honey-seekers
Land-slips—Leeches, &c.—Chakoong—Vegetation— Gravel terraces
Unpleasant effects of wormwood—Choongtam, scenery and vegetation
of—Inhabitants—Tibetan salute—Lamas—Difficulty of procuring food
—Venomous snakes—Hornets and other insects—Choongtam temple
—Pictures of Lhassa—Scenery.
A f t e r my return to Dorjiling, I was occupied during
the month of April in preparations for an expedition to
the loftier parts of Sikkim. The arrangements were
the same as for my former journey, except with regard
to food, which it was necessary should he sent out to
me at intervals; for I had had ample proof that the
resources of the country were not equal to provisioning
a party of from forty to fifty men, even had the Dewan
been favourable to my travelling, which was clearly not
the case.
Dr. Campbell communicated to the Rajah my intention
of starting early in May for the upper Teesta
valley, and, in the Govefnor-General’s name, requested
that he would facilitate my visiting the frontier of
Sikkim, north-east of Kinchinjimga. The desired
permission was, after a little delay, received; which
appeared to rouse the Dewan to institute a series of
obstructions to my progress, which led to so many
delays that my exploration of the country was not concluded
till October, and I was prevented returning to
Dorjiling before the following Christmas.
Since Dr. Campbell’s and my visit to the Rajah in
December, no Vakeel (agent) had been sent by the
Durbar to Dorjiling, and consequently we could only
communicate indirectly with his Highness, while we
found it impossible to ascertain the truth of various
reports promulgated by the Dewan, and meant to deter
me from entering the country. In April, the Lassoo
Kajee was sent as Vakeel, but, having on a previous
occasion been dismissed for insolence and incapacity,
and again rejected when proposed by the Dewan at
Bhomsong, he was refused an audience; and he retired
exasperated, pretending that he had orders to delay
my starting, and that he was prepared to use strong
measures should I cross the frontier.
No notice was taken of these th re a ts; the Rajah was
again informed of my intended departure, unless his
orders to the contrary were received through a proper
accredited agent, and I left Dorjiling on the 3rd of
May, accompanied by Dr. Campbell, who saw me fairly
over the frontier.
Arrangements were made for supplies of rice following
me by instalments; our daily consumption being
80 lbs., a man’s load. After crossing into Sikkim, I