The country about Titalya looks desert, from that
want of trees and cultivation, so characteristic of the
upper level throughout this part of the plains, which is
covered with short, poor, pasture-grass.
Shortly after Dr. Campbell’s arrival, the meadows
about the bungalow presented a singular appearance*
being dotted over with elephants, brought for purchase
by Government. I t was curious to watch the arrival
of these enormous animals, which were visible nearly
two miles across the flat plains; nor less interesting
was it to observe the wonderful docility of these giants
of the animal kingdom, often only guided by naked
boys, perched on their necks, scolding, swearing, and
enforcing their orders with an iron goad. There
appeared as many tricks in elephant-dealers as in
horse-jockeys, and of many animals brought, but few
were purchased. Government limits the price to
about 751., and the height to the shoulder must not
be under seven feet, which, incredible as it appears,
may be estimated within a fraction as being three
times the circumference of the forefoot. The pedigree
is closely inquired into, the feet are examined for
cracks, the teeth for age, and many other points attended
to.
The Sikkim frontier, from the Mahanuddee westward
to the Mechi, is marked by a row of tall posts. The
country is undulating; and though fully 400 miles
from the ocean, and not sixty from the top of the
loftiest mountain on the globe, its average level is not
300 feet above that of the sea. The upper levels are
gravelly, and loosely covered with scattered thorny
jujube bushes, occasionally tenanted by the Florican,
which scours these downs like a bustard. Sometimes
a solitary fig, or a thorny acacia, breaks the horizon,
and there are a few gnarled trees of the scarlet Butea
frondosa.
At this season few insects but grasshoppers are to
be seen, even mosquitos being rare. Birds, however,
abound, and we noticed the common sparrow, hoopoe,
water-wagtail, skylark, osprey, and several egrets.
We arrived on the third day at the Mechi river, to
the west of which the Nepal Morung begins, whose
belt of Sal forest loomed on the horizon, so raised by
refraction as to be visible as a dark line, from the
distance of many miles. I t is, however, very poor, all
the large trees having been removed. We rode for
several miles into it, and found the soil dry and hard,
but supporting a prodigious undergrowth of gigantic
harsh grasses that reached to our heads, though we
were mounted on elephants. Tigers, wild elephants,
and the rhinoceros, are said to be found here ; but
we saw none.
The old and new Mechi rivers are several miles
apart, but flow in the same depression, a low swamp
many miles broad, which is grazed at this season, and
cultivated during the rains. The grass is very rich,
partly owing to the moisture of the climate, and partly
to the retiring waters of the riv ers; both circumstances
being the effects of proximity to the Himalaya.
Hence cattle (buffalos and the common humped cow of
India) are driven from the banks of the Ganges 300
miles to these feeding grounds, for the use of which a