CHAPTER XXY.
Journey to the Rajah’s residence at Tumloong—Ryott valley—Rajah’s house
—Tupgain Lama—Lagong nunnery—Phadong Goompa—Phenzong
ditto—Lepcha Sepoys—Proceedings at Tumloong—Refused admittance
to Rajah—Women’s dresses—Meepo’s and Tchebu Lama’s
families—Chapel—Leave for Chola pass—Ryott river—Rungpo, view
from—Deputation of Kajees, &c.—Conference—Laghep— Oathcartia
—Phieung-goong—Rutto river—Barfonchen—Curling of rhododendron
leaf—Woodcock—Chola pass—Tibet guard and Sepoys—Dingpun—
Arrival of Sikkim sepoys—Their conduct—Meet Singtam Soubah—
Chumanako—We are seized by the Soubah’s party—Soubah’s conduct
—Dingpun Tinli—Treatment of Dr. Campbell—Bound and guarded
—Separated from Campbell—Marched to Tumloong—Motives for such
conduct—Arrive at Rungpo—At Phadong—Presents from Rajah—
Yisits of Lama—Of Singtam Soubah—I am cross-questioned by
Amlah—Confined with Campbell—Seizure of my coolies—Threats of
attacking Dorjiling.1
We started on the 3rd of November for Tumloong
(or Sikkim Durbar), Dr. Campbell sending Tchebu
Lama forward with letters to announce bis approach.
A steep ascent through large Rhododendron trees led
over a sharp spur, beyond which the whole bay-like
valley of the Ryott opened before us, presenting one of
the most lovely and fertile landscapes in Sikkim. I t
is ten miles long, and three or four broad, flanked by
lofty mountains, and its head girt by the beautiful
snowy range of Chola, from which silvery rills descend
through black Fir-woods, dividing innumerable converging
cultivated spurs, and uniting about 2000 feet
below us, in a profound gorge. Houses were scattered
everywhere amidst purple crops of buck-wheat, green
fields of young wheat, yellow millet, broad green plantains,
and orange groves.
We crossed spur after spur, often under or over
precipices about fifteen hundred feet above the river,
proceeding eastwards till we caught sight of the Rajah’s
house. I t was an irregular low stone building of
Tibetan architecture, with slanting walls and small
windows high up under the broad thatched roof, above
which, in the middle, was a Chinese-looking square
copper-gilt canopy, with projecting eaves and bells at
the corners, surmounted by a ball and square spire.
On either gable of the roof was a round-topped cylinder
of gilded copper, something like a closed umbrella:
this is a very frequent and characteristic Boodhist
ornament, and is represented in Turner’s plate of the
mausoleum of Teshoo Lama; indeed the Rajah’s
canopy at Tumloong is probably a copy of the upper
part of the building there represented, having been
built by architects from Teshoo Loombo. I t was
surrounded by chaits, mendongs, poles with banners,
and other religious erections; and though beautifully
situated on a flat terrace overlooking the valley, we
were much disappointed with its size and appearance.
On the brow of the hill behind was the large red
Goompa of the Tupgain Lama, the late heir apparent
to the temporal and spiritual authority in Sikkim ; and
near it a nunnery called Lagong, the lady abbess of
K 2