was a good library of books. More presents were
brought here, and tea served.
The route to Chola pass, which crosses the range of
that name south of the Chola peak, at the head of this
valley, is across the Ryott, and then eastwards along a
lofty ridge. Campbell started at noon, and I waited
behind with Meepo, who wished me to see the
Rajah’s dwelling, to which we therefore ascended;
but, to my guide’s chagrin, we were turned back.
We were followed by a messenger, apologising and
begging me to re tu rn ; but I had already descended
1000 feet, and felt no inclination to reascend the
hill, especially as there did not appear to be anything
worth seeing. Soon after I had overtaken Campbell,
he was accosted by an excessively dirty fellow, who
desired him to return for a conference with the
officials; this was of course declined, but, at the same
time, Campbell expressed his readiness to receive them
at our halting place.
The Ryott flows in a very tropical gorge 2000 feet
above the s e a ; whence the ascent is very steep to
Tumloong, where we took up our quarters at a rest-
house called Rungpo (alt. 6008 feet). This road is
well kept, and hence onwards is traversed yearly by
the Rajah on his way to his summer residence of
Choombi, two marches beyond the Chola pass; whither
he is taken to avoid the Sikkim rains, which are
peculiarly disagreeable to Tibetans. Rungpo commands
a most beautiful view northwards, across the
valley, of the royal residence, temples, goompas,
hamlets, and cultivation, scattered over spurs, which are
studded below with tree-ferns and plantains, and backed
by black fir-woods and snowy mountains. In the
evening the officers of the court arrived to confer with
Campbell; at first there was a proposal of turning us
out of the house, in which there was plenty of room,
but as we declined to move, except by the Rajah’s
order, they put up in houses close by.
On the following morning they met us as we were
departing for the Chola pass, bringing large presents
in the name of the Rajah, and excuses on their and
his part for having paid us no respect at Tumloong,
saying, that it was not the custom to receive strangers
till after they had rested a day, that they were busy
preparing a suitable reception, &c.; this was all false,
and contrary to etiquette, but there was no use in
telling them so. Campbell spoke firmly and kindly
to them, and pointed out their incivility and the unfriendly
tone of their whole conduct. They then
desired Campbell to wait and discuss business affairs
with them ; this was out of the question, and he
assured them that he was ever ready to do so with the
Rajah, that he was now (as he had informed his Highness)
on his way with me to the Chola and Yakla
passes, and that we had, for want of coolies, left some
loads behind us, which, if they were really friendly,
they would forward. This they did, and so we parted;
they (contrary to expectation) making no objection to
Campbell’s proceeding with me.
A long march up a very steep, narrow ridge took
us by a good road to Laghep, a stone resting-house on
a very narrow flat. I had abundance of occupation in