CHAPTER XIX.
PACE
Routes from Choongtam to Tibet frontier—Choice of that by the
Lachen river—Arrival of supplies—Departure—Features of the
valley — Eatable Polygonum — Cross Taktoong river — Pines,
larches, and other trees;—Chateng pool—Water-plants and insects—
Tukcham mountain — Lamteng village—Inhabitants —
Alpine monkey—Botany of temperate Himalaya—European and
American fauna—Japanese and Malayan genera—Superstitious
objections to shooting—Customs of people—Rain—Run short of
provisions—Altered position of Tibet frontier—Zemu Samdong—
Imposition—Vegetation—Uses of pines—Ascent to Thlonok river
—Balanophora wood for making cups—Snow-beds—Eatable
mushrooms and Smilacina—View of Kinchinjunga—Arum-roots,
* preparation of for food—Liklo mountain—Behaviour of my party
—Bridge constructed over Zemu—Cross river—Alarm of my
party—Camp on Zemu river . . . . . . . 52
CHAPTER XX.
Camp on Zemu river—Scenery—F a llin g rocks—Tukcham mountain
—Height of glaciers—Botany—Gigantic rhubarb—Storm—Temperature
of rivers—Behaviour of Lachen Phipun—Hostile conduct
of Bhoteas—View from mountains above camp—Descend to Zemu
Samdong—Vegetation—Letters from Doijiling—Arrival of Sing-
tam Soubah—Presents from Rajah—Parties collecting Arum-roots
—Insects—Ascend Lachen river—Tallum Samdong village—
Cottages—Mountains—Plants—Entomology—Weather—Conduct
of Singtam Soubah—His character and illness—Agrees to take
me to Kongra Lama—Tungu—Appearance of country—Houses
—Poisoning by Arum-roots—Yaks and calves—Tibet ponies—
Journey to Kongra Lama—Tibetan tents—Butter, curds, and
chums—Hospitality—Kinchinjhow and Chomiomo—Magnificent
scenery—Reach Kongra Lama Pass . . . . . . 75
CHAPTER XXI.
Top of Kongra Lama—Tibet frontier—Elevation—View—Vegetation—
Descent to Tungu—Tungu-choo—Ponies—Kinchinjhow and
Changokhang mountains — Palung plains — Tibetans— Dogs —
Dingcham province of Tibet—Inhabitants—Dresses—Women’s
ornaments — Blackening faces — Coral— Tents — El evation of
Palung—Lama—Shawl-wool goats—Shearing—Siberian plants
Height of glaciers, and perpetual sn ow— Plants, and wild
«mimn.ln —Marmots—Insects —Birds—Choongtam Lama Religious
exercises—Tibetan hospitality— Delphinium— Perpetual
snow—Return to Tallum Samdong—To Lamteng—Houses—
Cicadas—Landslips—Arrival at Choongtam— Cobra—Rageu—
Velocity and volume of rivers measured—Leave for Lachoong
valley—Keadom—General features of valley—Lachoong village
Tunkra mountain—Moraines—Cultivation—Lachoong Phipun
N -—Lama ceremonies beside a sick-bed .
CHAPTER XXII.
Leave Lachoong for Tunkra pass Moraines and their vegetation
Pines of great dimensions—Wild currants—Glaciers—Summit of
pass—Elevation—Views —Plants—Winds Lacheepia rock
Extreme cold—Kinchinjunga— Himalayan grouse—Return to
Lachoong—“Ascent to Yeumtong—Flats and debâcles Buried
pine-trunks—Hot-springs—Behaviour of Singtam Soubah—Leave
for Momay Samdong—Upper limit of trees—Glacial terraces, &c.
—Forked Donkia—Ascent to Donkia p a s s— Scenery—Lakes—
Tibet — Bhomtso—Arun river—Kianglah mountains — Yaru-
Tsampu river—Appearance of Tibet—Kinchinjhow, and Kinchinjunga—
Chola range—Deceptive appearance of distant landscape
—Perpetual snow—Pulses—Plants—Tripe de roche—Return to
Momay—Dogs and y a k s — Birds—Insects—Quadrupeds—Hot-
springs—Marmots—Kinchinjhow glacier . . • . . 120
CHAPTER XXIII.
Donkia glaciers—Moraines—Dome of ice—Honey-combed surface
Accident to instruments—Sebolah pass—Bees and May-flies—
View—Lamas and travellers at Momay—Weather and climate
Sensations arising from elevation—Dr. Campbell leaves Dorjiling
for Sikkim—Leave Momay—Yeumtong—Lachoong—Retardation
of vegetation at low elevations—Choongtam — Landslips and
débâcle—Meet Dr. Campbell—Motives for his journey—Second
visit to Lachen valley—Autumnal tints—Red currants—Lachen
Phipun —Tungu—Scenery—Animals—Poisonous rhododendrons
Fire-wood — Palung — Elevations —Sitong— Kongra Lama—
Tibetans—Enter Tibet—Desolate scenery—Plants—Animals—
Geology—Cholamoo lakes—Antelopes—Return to Yeumtso—Dr,