without food ; the worst, that they swaggered and
bullied : he added, with some pride, that he gave them
as good as he got, which I could readily believe, Nimbo
being really a resolute fellow, and moreover accomplished
in Tibet slang.
On the following morning it rained harder than
ever, and the wind was piercingly cold. My timid
Lepchas huddled behind my tent, which, from its
position, was only to be stormed in front. I dismantled
my little observatory, and packed up the
instruments, tied my dog, Kinchin, to one of the tent-
pegs, placed a line of stones opposite the door, and
seated myself on my bed on the ground, with my gun
beside me.
The dog gave tongue as twenty or thirty people
defiled up the glen, and gathered in front of my ten t;
they were ragged Bhoteas, with bare heads and legs,
in scanty woollen garments sodden with rain, which
streamed off their shaggy hair, and furrowed their sooty
faces ; their whole appearance recalled to my mind
Dugald Dalgetty’s friends, the children of the mist.
They appeared nonplussed at seeing no one with me,
and at my paying no attention to them, whilst the
valiant Kinchin effectually scared them from the tent-
door. When they requested a parley, I sent the
interpreter to say that I would receive three men,
and that only provided all the rest were sent away
immediately ; this, as I anticipated, was acceded to at
once, and there remained only the Lachen Phipun and
his brother. Without waiting to let him speak, I rated
him soundly, saying, that I was ready to leave the
spot when he could produce any proof of my being in
Bhote (or Tibet), which he knew well I was n o t; that,
since my arrival at Lachen, he had told me nothing
but lies, and had contravened every order, both of the
Rajah and of Tchebu Lama. I added, that I had given
him and his people kindness and medicine, their return
was bad, and he must go about his business at once,
having, as I knew, no food, and I having none for him.
He behaved very humbly, and finally took himself off
much discomfited, and two days afterwards sent men
to assist me in moving my things.
The 1st of July was such a day as I had long
waited for to obtain a view, and I ascended the mountain
west of my camp, to an elevation of 14,914 feet.
Drizzling mist, which had shrouded Tukcham all
the morning, prevented any prospect from the highest
point reached; but on the ascent I had an excellent
view up the Zemu, which opened into a broad grassy
valley, where I saw with the glass some wooden sheds,
but no cattle or people. To reach these, however,
involved crossing the river, which was now impossible;
and I reluctantly made up my mind to return on the
morrow to Zemu Samdong, and thence try the other
river.
On my descent to the Thlonok, I found that the
herbaceous plants on the terraces had grown fully two
feet during the fortnight, and now presented almost a
tropical luxuriance and beauty. At Zemu Samdong
I found the vegetation even more gay and beautiful:
the gigantic lily was in full flower, and scenting the
air, with a lovely red rose, Neillia also was blossoming