I explained that I only intended making a stay of a
few days, being anxious to catch the Governor at Tete,
for whom I had official letters.
“ But, my dear sir, my friend the Governor will be here
in a few days, and you had better remain here until he
comes.”
I told him that I did not wish to overtax his hospitality;
but he insisted, and I remained. As for the matter of
transport, he told me that the boat could perfectly well
have come down as far as that; but excused the corporal
for not finding men, as he could not have got them
without applying to him. He promised, however, to get
some next day, and promised to send for my luggage.
This he did so promptly that they were off before I knew
of itmext morning, and I had to send a special messenger
with a note and instructions for my men. This was on
the 1st December: they arrived on the 4th. I waited
to see the Governor, who was expected daily. I spent
four days tolerably uncomfortably with dysentery until
he arrived on the 9th. I then went back with him the
thirty miles to Kashumba, whither he had to go to instal
a new military commander, and did not leave Inhamecuta
until the 19th. The only interesting incident of these
days concerned a woman and a crocodile. The woman
was seized by the crocodile, but clutched hold of its
jaws and opened its mouth to free herself. The crocodile
caught her again, but a second time she wrenched its
mouth open, and actually managed to get away.
As we left Inhamecuta I took my dear friend Curado
de Campos aside, and asked what I owed for some calico
I had bought from him.
He told me the amount, and added: “ Well, my dear
sir, there is also a small charge for board and lodging.
You see if you had only stopped here for three or four
days I should have been happy to entertain you, but as
you stopped over twelve days you see I am compelled
to make a charge.”
“ All right,” said I ; “ how much is it ? ”
“ Well, deuss livres.”
I understood two pounds, and put it down.
“ No, no, my dear sir—dix livres,” and he wrote it
down.
I fairly jumped, and looked at him.
“ Well,” said he, “ you can see yourself the tabella of
prizes.”
I did not want to discuss, and I merely said, “ All right;
I will write a draft.”
“ Certainly not; I want money.”
“ But I have none. I may remind you that a few days
ago I mentioned the fact, and you offered to cash me a
draft for any amount.”
“ Well,” said the Senhor, growing excited, “ I call this
disgraceful, to eat a man’s food, and to have no money
to pay.”
“ Well, if you don't want to take my draft, I will pay
your agent at Tete.”
“ No, I want the money at once, or else I shall have the
law of you.”
“ Very well—do so : as you can only bring a case at
Tete, you won’t be paid sooner; and even so, I may then
choose to dispute the claim.”
Thereupon the Governor came. I explained my case,
and he said that he would hold himself responsible for
the amount, and asked Curado to make out the account.
This was calculated in Portuguese currency at 4500 reis;
Curado began to object, but I produced his own tabella
of prizes, and left him cursing me and the Governor and
the dishonesty of an ungrateful world in general.
From Inhamecuta we started on an unexciting and
sufficiently miserable march. The magnates, among whom
I was kindly included, were carried, Portuguese fashion, in
a machilla or hammock slung to a pole. The Governor
kindly offered to make a detour in order to show me the
celebrated gorge of Kebra Baca, where the Zambezi flows
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