crossing a larger one. with a brackish stream flowing through
it, found, on ascending the opposite ridge, that we had at last
arrived at M’Tanganiko.
M’Tanganiko is a small Swahili town, built on a ridge
surrounded by a few lanky coco-nut trees, and divided by a
deep valley from a river with a constant supply of good water.
Several Indian merchants reside here, and carry on a con-
N A T IV E S OF M T A N G A N IK O .
siderable trade with the Wa-Giryama in maize, tobacco, and
' gum-copal. I went through the town, crossing to the other
■side of the valley where I camped near the river- meeting no
end of women and children on the way carrying water from
it. I noticed that empty- kerosene oil tins were used for this
purpose. I camped at 5.30 p.m., having been on the road
since 6.30 a.m.
My people informed me that Salim bin Hamisi, Liwali of
Takaungu, was at present at M’Tanganiko. He sent some of
his askaris to greet me, apologizing for not coming 'himself as
he had a sore le g ; and with many compliments presented me
with a sheep, a couple of. fowls, and a lot of eggs.
There were a great many Wanika settled round here, and
some of my Wanika porters had relations— brothers, etc.-^-
amongst them. I was yery glad of this; as I hoped they
would spread the news that I was employing Wanika as
paid labourers at Magarini. There was heavy rain during
the night, which was rather hard lines on my people after
their long tramp ; but the Wanika a ll: slept in the village of
their tribesmen close by.
Next morning was still rainy. I called1 on the Liwali, an
elderly Arab, possessing, a large area of land in this district.
When I fold him the object of my visit, and asked for his
help and assistance," he said that he- was' detained here on
business at present, but promised to meet me shortly at
Takaungu. I therefore returned to'camp, and finding my
loads-already packed I left immediately for Takaungu; I
' crossed the river, which flows through a narrow fertile valley
with rich loamy black soil— the vegetation, especially guinea-
grass, being most luxuriant— and then passed over a series of
low hills covered with grass and bush, everything looking very
green and luxuriant after the heavy downpour of rain the
night before.
Marching was rather difficult, as the' path simply went
straight up one.hill and down the next. From their tops a
good view was obtained of the surrounding country, which
consisted of a succession of low hills and valleys covered
with rich vegetation. The soil was excellent, a chocolate
loam.
On the left occasional glimpses were caught of what I
thought at this time was the river Kififi, but afterwards learnt
was the N’Zovoni river. A t 8.30 a.m. we descended to a
sandy back-water, with a good many mangroves, and surrounded
by low hills. We followed this for an hour, and
then, after ascending a steep bank, came upon an extensive
stretch of level and fertile country, covered everywhere with
low bush and grass, and here I obtained my first sight of