a gourd of water with them, and arrive at Burkau early on the
following day. That there is no real scarcity of water along
this coast is evidenced by the fact, that besides Shamku there
is said to be apother lake about one day’s march inland from
Shakan, called M’Bawe— in fact, the same described to me by
Bwana Siri on my first visit to Mattaroni.
On ray way down to Shakan I noticed with interest some
coco-nuts lying here and there on the shore, evidently washed
up by the waves— indeed I had remarked them both on my
up and on the downward march from Port Durnford. There
were both green and mature ones, but all had been spoilt by
their long immersion in the water. I expect the casuarina
trees that are found scattered here and there along the coast
are sown in this manner.
We were once more welcomed at Shakan by the Waze, and
here f left Bwana Siri in the bosom of his family, he promising
to rejoin me at Kionga, where I proposed remaining for some
days. I reached the latter place at npon, and after choosing
a good site for the camp on the sea-shore to the north of the
"town, I went off with my interpreter, Rashid, to speak to. the
Waze. They expressed great regret at the action of the Burkau
head-man, and said he was “m'baya sana” (very bad), and that
Mze Saif would be sure to punish him ; they promised to send
off' a messenger immediately to summon Mohamed bin Saif,
who was at present at Homw6. I appreciated some green
coco-nuts which they presented me with; I had not tasted
one, it seemed to me, for months !
I was pleased to find the dhow, which I had sent off from
Port Durnford with my extra loads and some sick porters,
safely anchored in the bay.
Next day, on examining my stores that had been left here,
I was much vexed to find that a good deal of rice had been
stolen ; it was supposed to have been under the particular
charge of Mohamed bin S a if! This worthy gentleman arrived
in the evening, and was profuse in his expressionsLof regret
at what had happened at Burkau. The man would be severely
punished, and if I wished to- return there I might be certain
that I should meet with no further difficulty. I told him I
would certainly not go back, but proposed instead to strike
inland behind Homw6, and that I counted on his help in
getting my spare loads carried up there.
This seemed to take him aback somewhat, but after a pause;
he declared his readiness to do all he could to help me. I
therefore arranged for the dhow to land my goods opposite
Homw6, whence Mohamed bin Saifs people would carry
them inland.
After my late experiences, I was somewhat distrustful of
the two Watiku guides, and I had no doubt in my mind that,
both being Wa-Katwa, their sympathies and feelings had been
entirely with the Burkau people, the head-man there being of
the same tribe as themselves. I therefore looked about to find a
more reliable man, and was fortunate in obtaining the services
of a guide named Nasur M’Barak Jubri. Nasur was formerly
an askari in the Sultan of Zanzibar’s army, but was now settled
here, having married a Watiku wife. He lived by elephant-
hunting, and knew all the country to the southward as far as
Itembe. In a talk I had with him on the subject, he suggested
that I should first go-to the Homwe shambas three and a half
hours’ distance from Kionga, camping there till I had got up
all my supplies from the coast, and then strike inland towards
the Mundane Range, where he said the forest begins ; that I
could form another camp there, and proceed afterwards as the
appearance of the country and circumstances might decide.
On Mohamed bin Saif’s next visit to my camp, I sent
for Nasur, and arranged the details of my journey to Homw6
and the situation of my proposed camp. Whilst we were discussing
this, Bwana Siri arrived from Shakan, and I availed
myself of the Watiku chief’s presence to get rid of him then
and there, telling him I should not require his services any longer.
Mohamed bin Saif appeared very averse to this, and said
he did not like going against his brother, Mze Saif’s, wishes .;
Bwana Siri remarking that he had been ordered to take me
up to Burkau and then bring me back to Itembe. Eventually
it was arranged that Bwana Siri should accompany me to
Homw6, and from there proceed to Itembe to inform Mze Saif
of all that had occurred since I had last seen him. I was only
too glad to get rid of the man under any pretext, for he had
proved himself utterly useless and unreliable.