to do their very best to catch the caravan, so I thought
that I could not do better than await • events where I was,
particularly as I commanded the sole outlet to Mombrui on
this side.
The great drawback to comfort was that as soon as it
became dark, I was visited by the fourth plague of E g yp t;
swarms, of insects of all kinds, with remarkably sharp stings,
attracted by my .light, invaded my tent, fell into my food,
plate, and everything, compelling me to beat a hurried retreat
under my mosquito-curtains, where a good many managed
to follow me. These flies were a great nuisance, for I could
neither read, write, nor even eat in peace. Next day there
was still no news of the slave caravan, so I set off with one
of my men to find a lake which I had been told was close
to the village. I found it in a hollow, only ten minutes’ walk
away; it was small, but evidently became larger in the wet
season, and was, I expect, the birthplace of many of my
nightly tormentors. A guide I had picked up in the village
told me that there were both crocodiles and hippo in a lake
further on, so I set off to find it. Passing through some open
country, and descending a low valley, I came upon a small
lake partly surrounded by cultivation, and I thought it was
the one I was in search o f ; but my guide said no,' there
were crocodiles here, but his lake was further on. Proceeding
through high grass and stunted bush, to my surprise we
suddenly came upon a third small lake, surrounded and
hidden by high grass; it was simply swarming with crocodiles.
Some, of an enormous size, were sleeping on the banks—
horrid yellow-looking brutes, with their mouths wide open.
Unfortunately, I had no gun with me, and the trigger of my
porter’s gun was rusty from the recent rains, and would not
work, or I could easily have shot several. The hippo lake
was still ahead ;' when found, it was a small and winding
sheet of water with hippo tracks all around. As it was now
getting dark, I determined, if I could manage it, to return
another day and try my luck. From rising ground close by
I had a good view of the valley I had just traversed; it
appeared a large hollow or basin, surrounded on all sides by
forest. The guide assured me that the entire hollow was
filled with water in the rains and formed an extensive lake,
which in the dry season narrowed down to the chain of lakes
I had passed.
Para rubber trees would do well here, as the low flooded
land and rich soil meet their requirements. On my way
back, at the" second lake, I succeeded in getting a shot with
the porter’s rifle at a large crocodile that was basking on the
bank about 50 yards away. I hit him, and he rushed back
into the water with a tremendous plunge, kicking up a thick
shower of mud.
In the evening I received a letter from Mr. Wilson asking
me to meet him the following evening at M’Lengo-Baya on
his way down to the coast; so early next morning I set off at
daylight with the Giryama guide to the hippo lake. On reaching
it I at first saw nothing, but presently I observed two
pairs of nostrils out in the centre, just above the water. After
waiting for a long time, in hopes of a better chance, I fired at
the nearest, but the mark was too small and the hippo ducked
before the bullet reached. A number of Giryamas that had
turned up, told me that sunset was the time to get them, as th e y
then showed their heads well out of the water. The Giryamas
were very eager for me to shoot one, for they are very fond of
the flesh. I promised them I would return some evening if
possible. On my way back I shot two crocodiles ; this small
lake was simply seething with the brutes, which were swimming
about in every direction. Each time that I passed
backwards and forwards in visiting these lakes, I was more
and more struck with the richness of the pure alluvial soil.
I had just arranged to start for M’Lengo-Baya in the
evening when Wilson arrived at my camp. Having heard
that I was quite near, he had come on. We spent a pleasant
evening together discussing our arrangements, and wondering
what had become of the slave caravan, as we could hear
nothing of it. Wilson was afraid that it had escaped us
by taking a more northerly route.
After dinner we had a little excitement to vary the monotony
of camp life. We saw a big glare, and were told that
the village was on fire. We rushed off to help with our
people, most of these intelligent beings taking their guns with