along the sea-shore, here fringed with rocky islets (the-Rozier
Rocks), one larger island lying in front of Shakalasia Point,
whilst inland the country consisted of low ridges, beyond
which it was open and flat and covered with grass and bush.
An hour after our departure, on turning a rocky corner, I
was dismayed to See our dhow had run aground; I called a
halt, and put everybody on to lighten her, and it was not till
the last load was out that she floated again. We then had to
re-load, but all the porters worked with a will, for she carried
all our future supplies, and when the last load was on board
again they pushed her off into deep water with a cheer.
The coast-line varied between white sandy bays— remarkable
for the large accumulation of sea-weed on the beach,
often 4 to 5 feet deep, and beaten into a compact mass by
the action of waves— and low rocky headlands; we often
had to wade up to our middles to get round them, slipping
over the jagged coral bottom, and often falling into unexpected
holes. About ten o’clock I saw' my guides coming to meet me
accompanied by some of the Port Durnford people. The
news of yesterday was apparently a false alarm, and so far
this was satisfactory, but I afterwards had reason to suspect
that the report had -been got up by the guides themselves;
either to obtain an opportunity of getting to Port Durnford
before me or for the purpose o f frightening me.
The Port Durnford people expressed much pleasure at
seeing me, and escorted by them I continued my march over
the rocky coral strand, which was very trying for the porters’
bare feet. After rounding some more rocky points and
coming upon open sandy beach again, the guides/pointed out
a group of casuarina trees some distance ahead, saying they
were close to Burkau or Port Durnford. Shortly afterwards,
to my relief, the guides struck inland across gently
undulating grassy downs with scattered clumps of bush,
everything appearing to us very green and luxuriant after
so much marching over sand and rock. As we proceeded
I obtained occasional glimpses of the Port Durnford estuary,
a fine wide bay apparently running for some distance inland.
A t last, at 11 a.m., we reached the village of Burkau a little
beyond the clump of casuarina trees.
Burkau I found to be an ordinary Watiku village exactly
resembling those already seen. It is situated on the shores of
thè estuary, and contains about one hundred and fifty people.
They own a few head of cattle, which they purchase from the
Somalis, and also have a good many goats and sheep.
The Waze came out to meet me and escorted me to the
Baraza where I handed them Mze Saif’s letter and explained
the object of my journey, the head-man prqmising to come and
see me later on. Not finding a suitable place in the village,
FIRST VIEW OF PORT DURNFORD ESTUARY.
which appeared poor and dirty, I fixed my camp near a water-
hole a little distance off.
The dhow with our supplies arrived early in the afternoon,
and I arranged with the captain for him to return at once to
Kionga to bring up the remainder, as well as some further
supplies, which were to have been sent up by Mr. Rogers. I
promised him an extra present if he returned quickly. I
re-packed all the loads brought up, leaving fourteen and a half
bags of rice and fish to be sent on by the porters I hoped to
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