The village Akida came to tell me in the evening that as
Mze Saif was going to burn his shambas he could not now
come till the evening of the next day !
The thermometer readings that day were—
Faza, 6 a.m., 76° in the shade.
Itembe, 2 p.m., 90° „ „
„ 4 p.m., 88° „ ; „
„ 6 p.m., 82°_ „ „
Small gnats or midges, probably bred in the mangrove
swamps, were exceedingly troublesome both in the evenings
and mornings— rendering all reading or writing. at night
almost impossible by their incessant stinging, and continuing
in the morning till the sun was well up.
A letter came next morning from Mze Saif, saying that he
would come in this evening, and that all the Waze or headmen
of Mattaroni were with him. The Akida, who brought
me this news, further mentioned that Mze Saif had from 400
to 500 men with him clearing his shambas. I saw the
burning of these in the afternoon, and judging from the
volume and distance apart of the enormous columns of smoke,
the clearings must have been very extensive. The burning
had only been done just in time, as a very heavy shower of
rain came on shortly afterwards. The shambas were reported
to be two hours’ distance from Itembe.
I spent the day in exploring the neighbouring country, the
characteristics of which may be described as follows^HB
To the north and immediately round the town, w4s chiefly
open, cleared and burnt land, with many fan-palm clumps.
To the west, thick thorri-bush with scattered low trees; the
soil here though still very friable was better in quality, and
judging from the large shambas being made in that direction,
must still further improve, and should be very suitable for the
cultivation of coco-nuts, sim-sim, and cotton. Towards the
sea the coast is low and everywhere thickly fringed with mangroves,
borities being largely exported.
Speaking of mangroves, I may remark that the wood makes
excellent fuel, and coral burnt with it makes excellent lime.
Game, including lions, was reported to be plentiful" in the
rains, but at present there were only buck and “ pah ” (a small
antelope), both of which were numerous.
On returning to camp I found Mze Saif had called in my
absence and left plenty of salaams, and a message- that he
was too tired to return that evening, but would visit me next
d a y ; at what hour was not stated. His young son, the one
who had crossed over with me, came to see me in the evening,
making himself a great nuisance. Finally he wanted a box of
cigarettes, which I declined to give him, upon which, to my
relief, he went of in a huff.
The n e x t day (March 17) I at last had an interview with
Mze Saif, who came to see me in the morning. He was an
old man with a crafty expression of countenance, and is a
typical Bajoni. The interview was not satisfactory. My
letters to Mze Saif requested him to afford me every facility
for visiting this part of the coast, and on the completion of my
visit to give me the necessary escort through the country to
the south on my way back to Lamu.
He told me, however, that the Siyu people on the mainland
to the south were at this moment very hostile in their attitude,
owing to a.quarrel which had arisen between them a.nd Fumo
Omari, the rebel Sultan of Witu ; and that he dared not take
the responsibility of sending me through their country, as I
might very probably be seized as a hostage. He suggested
that I should at present only visit Mattaroni, about four miles
to the westward, where cotton is cultivated, and that afterwards
he would send me down by sea to Wange; he said that
doubtless in a little while everything would settle down and
the country become quite peaceful again, when I could return
and go wherever I wished, and that he would be only too glad
to help me by every means in his power. Every argument I
could bring forward could not shake his resolution; I was
quite helpless, for if Mze Saif would not give me an escort
it was useless for me, with my small party, and only three
rifles,.to push southward alone, so I had reluctantly to give way-
for the present, resolving however to return better prepared
another time.
I arranged therefore to go at once to Mattaroni, Mze Saif
promising to send two of his men to guide me there.