dammed up in connection with rice cultivation, for the people
from Patta came over to the mainland regularly to plant rice,
and this property connection between the people of the island
and the Witu country has existed for a long time.
The country between this and the sea was undulating to
flat, with bush and open grass patches. Approaching Makowe
village the sand-cliffs of Lamu could be seen distinctly ahead.
Passing this village and its small area of cultivation with
LAMU MARKET.
some fine mango trees near the path, I reached the ferry at
4 p.m. It took me an hour to get my men and loads across,
and we arrived at the town of Lamu at 6 p.m. Here I found
Mr. Rogers, the Company s officer, who welcomed me, and
made me most comfortable in his house.
I here found letters awaiting me from the Administrator,
instructing me to visit and report on the district of Wasin
and the country south of Mombasa; I was then to return and
complete my exploration of the coast-land up to Port Durnford,
and finally visit Kismayu and the runaway-slave settlements
of Gosha, situated on the Juba river.
I heard to my dismay that' the Company’s steamer Juba
in which I had hoped to go down to Mombasa, had left some
days before, and as, with the present contrary winds, a journey
by dhow would be too long and tedious, there was now
nothing to be done but to march down overland!
I remained in Lamu for two days, and then started on my
long tramp southward, leaving for Kipungani on Monday,
March 27, at 7 a.m. After a very tiring march through the
deep white sand, passing but very little cultivation— indeed
there seems hardly any in the centre of the island— I reached
Kipungani with its steep sandy ridges at 9 a.m., and here
embarked in a small dhow for Kimbo, which I reached at
12.30 p.m.
Kimbo village is situated at the end of a long winding
creek thickly surrounded with mangroves, and as we slowly
punted our way up, I thought how well coco-nuts would grow
in the rich muddy banks of this extensive mangrove swamp.
The heat was so great that, by way of a change, I resolved
on a night march to U’Kanga; the announcement delighted
my porters. I told them all to get what sleep they could in
the afternoon, and that we would start after their evening
meal. Accordingly, at 9 p.m. we started on our way in brilliant
moonlight, as bright as day, taking two guides with us from
Kimbo. Leaving the village, which has a great many fan
palms growing round it in the usual grey loamy soil, after an
hour’s march, which was wonderfully cool and pleasant, we
passed through the cultivated land and houses of the village
of Bandani, whence to M’Pekatoni the way led through
Hyphaene palm forest, interspersed with open glades, in places
cultivated, and some low swamps. We arrived at M’Pekatoni
at 11.30 p.m., and halted here for twenty minutes near a
water-hole: we could hear the hippo-bellowing in the lake.
As we resumed our march it became very hard work, since
latterly, the moon having disappeared, it became very dark,
and my one lantern did not help us very much. The high
grass had completely overgrown the path, and it was very
difficult to follow; we constantly lost it, and, as both the grass