1 1 4 PREPARATION FOR JOURNEY INLAND.
while away time with reading or a game at cards or
billiards.
The preparations for a tour across country to the
Malabar coast is a somewhat formidable undertaking
as regards clothing and provisions,—the climate changes
with the elevation of the country, and I was told that
very inferior mutton and rice were the only articles
of food to be had in the native bazaars of the interior ;
in the latter I was agreeably disappointed, for I soon
found that my kitmagar managed to procure poultry,
eggs, ghee or clarified butter, milk and delicious fruit
in all but very out-of-the-way places. I therefore
recommend travellers in those regions not to load
their conveyance with an unlimited supply of provisions,
but confine themselves to groceries and a few
tins of delicacies to effect an occasional change in their
diet, and perhaps a case of wine, although the water
is excellent throughout,—cigars of course, some of the
best brands of Trichinopoli, can be had at Bangalore
for ten rupees per thousand.
The only mode of travelling through Mysore is by
bullock, or transit-cart, admitting room for one or two
persons, a sort, of elongated bread-cart, or pauper
hearse at home, painted canary-yellow; on the outside
seat in front sits your servant, generally surrounded b y .
JOURNEY TO MYSORE. 115
a number of nondescript packages, containing cooking
utensils, a small supply of provisions to still the
cravings of an empty stomach en route, and his own
kit. The oxen driver either sits on the shaft, or else
runs alongside, using his whip freely, and applying any
number of not very savoury epithets to the quadrupeds
under his charge. This most comfortless and primitive
conveyance is supposed to rest upon springs—the
latter, however, seldom last out an entire journey, but
have a knack of snapping whilst the worn-out traveller
is wrapt in deep slumber, making him jump up
suddenly, thus bringing his head into contact with the
low roof, from the sensation of which he does not soon
recover. The interior is divided horizontally by
boards, below for the luggage, and above, covered with
a thin mattrass, its owner reclines full length, with
barely room for the necessary articles of his to ile t;
but as he cannot easily turn round within, he has to
slip out as best he can, feet foremost. There are small
shifting boards on each side to admit air and-—dust.
These transit-carts have to be ordered several days in
advance, as oxen have to be laid on at certain stages,
about six miles ap a rt; and since one travels during the
night only, the progress within the twenty-four hours
seldom exceeds fifty miles. The hire for the cart is three
rupees per day until its return, and a pair of bullocks are
I 2