sooner or later as the Japanese continue in their
course of Europeanizing, which seems to attack all
their quaint old customs ; nor will it surprise me
to see this picturesque bridge itself make room for
some ugly iron structure, to be crossed by carriages
and footmen.
(Since the above was written, “ Unbeaten Tracks in
Japan,” published in 1880, by Miss Isabella Bird,
informs us that the “ Adstima ” of to-day is a handsome
stone bridge, so I must apologize fo r the insinuation.
The authoress did actually see it crossed by the. Minister
of Marine in his English brougham and pair. Another
innovation Miss Bird describes is the “ kuruma,” a kind
of bath-chair, now universally used by natives as well as
Europeans ; it is on two wheels, and drawn by one, two,
or three men or boys, and might well be called a pull-
pull in contradistinction of the push-push at Pondicherry.)
On descending into the street, I fairly ran against a
man, respectably dressed, wearing a deep fibre hat
coming down to his chin, thus completely concealing
his features ; it had two small holes to see through,
and bore the appearance of a bee-hive. This individual,
I ascertained, was a noble degraded by his
Government : there are a great many of this class,
belonging to the fraternity of “ Lonins,” or adventurers,
the most dangerous cut-throats and highway-robbers
in Japan. At that moment the mounted escort, consisting
of three Yakonins,—two-sworded officers,—and
our bettos, of tattooed celebrity, joined us with the
chairs, and we marched off through endless bazaars to
Sheba, the tombs and temples erected to the memory
of seven Tycoons.
These granite tombs stand upon a pedestal, within
an enclosure of handsome lacquer walls and heavy
bronze gates, approached by two or three wide steps ;
those of the wives of the Tycoons are of a similar construction,
but more simple. On entering the courtyard,
the temples being nearly hidden from view by
the thick foliage of pines and cypresses, I passed the
usual bell-shaped pagoda, and continuing my walk
along the avenue and amongst flowering shrubs, I
presently came to a sort of ornamental gallows, the
sacred gateway, or Torii, which marks the precincts of
every Japanese temple; and a dozen more steps brought
me face to face with a detached portico leading to the
temples, the largest of which, situated to the extreme
left, is 180 years old, guarded by two enormous stone
dragon-dogs. This edifice is double in its construction.
The inner temple is reached by wooden steps, lacquered
black, resembling marble to a nicety ; its roof is sup