jasper, and the walls of white marble inlaid with cornelian
; there are marble screens, about eight feet
square each, surrounding the same, wrought into
the most intricate open traceries. This is one
of the most beautiful specimens of the kind in
India.
The population in the agricultural districts of the
North-Western provinces consists now of eight Hindus
to one Mohamedan ; in the towns, both religions are
about equally represented. The climate is far from
agreeable, owing to its extreme heat and cold, and the
country over which I travelled, as far as Delhi, is one
level. I arrived there at an early hour in the morning,
and finding the only hotel engaged, I had no difficulty
in making myself comfortable at the Dak bungalow for
the small pay of one rupee per day.
Delhi, the great Mogul city, is strongly fortified, and
about seven miles in circumference; it is surrounded
by an embattled wall, with bastions, moat, and glacis,
and has seven handsome gates; its population is said
to count one hundred and fifty thousand souls. The
streets are narrow, with one or two exceptions ; as, for
instance, the Chandnee-Chokee, or silversmith street,
which extends from the palace to the Delhi gate, outside
of which, in a sandy plain, is the Afghan Market,
a large enclosure occupied by the tall, and not overclean,
denizens of the hilly region beyond the Kyber
Pass; also by their beasts of burden lying about
amongst heaps of sheepskins and other unsavoury
merchandise, and numbers of camels, horses, and cattle,
brought here for sale. In the bazaars of Delhi the
jewellers are said to drive the best trade, and I can
well understand it, having visited the principal dealers
in precious stones. Here is a rich store to feed our
eyes upon—rubies, emeralds, turquoises, cats-eyes, and
many others ; the first two were especially beautiful,
and many Europeans resort to the shops to match a
certain stone.
The principal thoroughfares are always crowded with
natives, who flock to it from all parts of India, and
nowhere else does one see a greater variety of costume.
That of a Cashmere swell will give an idea of its
luxury. As I was walking along, this individual,
bursting with pride and vanity, strutted in front of
me, accompanied by three followers. The former was
got up in tight lavender-coloured silk trousers, an amber
coat with gold-embroidered collar, blue Cashmere
shawl thrown loosely over his shoulders, and an enormous
turban composed of a green shawl, shoes embroidered
in gold and silver completing the attire.
His underlings were dressed equally fantastically in
F 2