one, however, of the numerous temples equals those of
Sheba in elegance or picturesque aspect, besides, a
decided air of sacredness pervades the latter, which is
totally wanting elsewhere. The natives think a great
deal of the Quannon, known to Europeans under the
name of Asaxa, which is much frequented by pilgrims.
I t is built within the enclosures of a large park,
containing also tea-houses,—tscha-jas, be it well
understood,—and booths, where toys, Chinese crackers,
and a variety of cheap articles and food can be bought,
conveying to one’s mind the idea of a country fair;
moreover, there are mountebanks with shrill voices,
and the usual crowd of beggars. The square temple,
which is said to have existed more than 300
years, is at the end of the paved avenue, and raised
fifteen to twenty feet from the ground ; its heavy
wooden doors are overlaid with copper, and three
enormous paper lanterns hang over the entrance, but
there is nothing in the inside deserving special notice :
it i^ filled with a host of images, all more or less
repugnant in expression. A stable is attached to this
building, containing two white horses, or rather cream-
coloured ponies, supposed to continue the breed of an
old sacred race which never produced a black hair in
any of its progeny; this my guide, however, showed
me to be a myth, for he slily pointed out a mark along
the upper ridge of the neck which distinctly proved
that the mane had been dyed.
The best view of the Bay of Yeddo and the country
around is from a plateau called Taigoyama, which one
reaches after the laborious ascent of 107 granite steps.
Here there are several rest-houses of simple construction,
and, nolens volens, you soon find yourself
sipping a cup of highly-flavoured tea, handed by some
pretty damsel, at the same time curtseying almost to
the ground,---the Japanese are very ceremonious, and
never fail in offering a most respectful salute. The
Grecian bend, so well known in England some years
ago, is their usual mode of bowing to each other,
where we should probably pass on with a nod.
Frequently a small cup, containing hot water, and a
few cherry blossoms in it, is presented along with the
tea. Its scent is very pleasant, hut I cannot say that
T admired the flavour of this, infusion, which requires
the palate of a native to appreciate. I, however,
thoroughly enjoyed the distant landscape surrounding
this elevated s p o t f o r the town at your feet offers
no charms to the searching eye ;—an enormous mass
of brown roofs, the thickly-cemented ridges giving
them rather a greyish appearance, amongst which the
lofty Yeddo Hotel stands out conspicuously ; but the